Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gradenko,

I think we are talking the same language.

Drag/street overlap as much as track/street on turbo selection. The operative word is 'street', ie: nice fat power band.

Whether you have a mild set up for track or strip is a matter of 'how much' you want to compromise the daily drivabillity.

Originally posted by Gradenko

RadiuM, what were you having done to your car, left over compliancing type stuff?

yeah.. .just picking it up from compliancing.. im awaiting the plate this week.. hopefully it'll be here this week. If my plates have been transferred from Rockingham -> Welshpool then it should be licenced by the weekend .. FINALLY!!!! :)

to save on the costs of purchasing the goods+setting them up, prebuy a car with all the goods :D

it saves you a shitload!

Shaun

In my experience, 2 mates with mild mod'd cars (one r32 and one r33) both have done a head gasket (the r32 definately has, the r33 is suspected to have, its running like a dog and displaying the right characteristics). It seems the japanese like to mod their cars, but dont really bother about the servicing and maintenance. Both rev210 and I had fairly stock cars to begin with and both are running extremely well. At the end of the day its all pot luck.

Rob

rev210, yeah, I guess there are extremes to both strip/street and track/street. Just depends on what the individual is comfortable compromising on.

GR33DyMANGO, Danny mentioned he's waiting on parts for your car. Didn't get to see it in the flesh but it seems that wheels are in motion.

initialD, yep its in. Wanna come by and take pics with your digi cam? My dv cam sucks at still shots.

Picked it up yesterday evening and sent it off this morning to have ignition timing adjusted and the s-afc tuned. Also having the fuel pump checked out - now would be a bad time for it to start failing. I took it fairly easy on the short drive home yesterday, but I noticed straight off that it now makes more power on 7psi, untuned, than it previously did on 10psi, tuned. A good sign for things ahead :D

Originally posted by GR33DyMANGO

Gradenko, how do u know about my car?  

Because you told me about it.... A few posts back:

Originally posted by GR33DyMANGO

if u see my car (silver sII) can u please tell me how its progressing.

Since you asked me to keep a look out, I asked Danny for an update on your behalf :D

Well, picked up the car from Barries today. Interestingly, the new ic is making the car run even richer than before (crazy factory ecu), so the s-afc is leaning back pretty much across the range. Final readout after tuning was 280rwhp. Putting aside the seemingly high reading, its still a decent 30hp increase over the last time it was on the same dyno, so I'm pretty happy :D

Originally posted by Gradenko

Well, picked up the car from Barries today. Interestingly, the new ic is making the car run even richer than before (crazy factory ecu), so the s-afc is leaning back pretty much across the range. Final readout after tuning was 280rwhp. Putting aside the seemingly high reading, its still a decent 30hp increase over the last time it was on the same dyno, so I'm pretty happy :D

Thats a pretty good gain for the same dyno. At least you know something worked (intercooler/s-afc retune).

Does the road feel back up the dyno improvement. Be good if one of us had a g-tech or something.

Originally posted by rev210

Does the road feel back up the dyno improvement.

Yeah, it really does. Previously, putting the boot in <3000rpm in any gear would have the ecu retarding timing all through the rev range. It was pretty severe, I could feel it as it happened and it was annoying. The only way to really start moving when under 3000rpm was to drop it back a gear (or 2), get it by suprise and really go for it. The intercooler changed all that. Now its eager at all revs, doesn't drop timing or do anything silly, just goes for gold.

Heatsoak in the under bonnet intake piping is a big problem though. I can feel it after only a few minutes in traffic. Its becuase of the heat transfer properties of aluminum (piping), good when you're trying to release heat, not so good when you don't want heat. Thermal wrap should help a lot there.

Originally posted by macka

What boost did you run on the dyno

0.95 bar, so around 14psi. Final base timing was set to 18 degrees advance, a couple above what it was previously. Barrie said its as high as we'll be able to take it.

Originally posted by rob77

What intercooler did you go with in the end gradenko?

Don't know the width and height, best I can tell is its 600x300mm and 75mm deep. Made to size by Perfomanz using a tube and fin core to use all space between the indicators. Piping and install by Global Motorworks, across the way from Perfomanz.

rob77, I know you're in love with Jap brands, but this is so well made and such good value for money that, like most other Australian gear, it puts Jap brands to shame. Sorry :D

Hicks, Barrie is of "Barries Dyno and Computer Tune Centre" fame. Works with all sorts, from American muscle to Jap performance and does a lot of work for importers on Jap cars straight off the boat. His workshop has a modest apperance but is always full, his rates are great and most importantly, he knows his shit. Barrie is truly a champ. [end plug] :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
×
×
  • Create New...