Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people's just moving into a skyline but i thought i'd go hard and well lets say finance is nearly through on the GTR r34.

If anyone has ideas on how to avoid theft i'd like to know I realise no one lives in a crimeless area, so what can i do to protect the new baby?

Some have mentioned sensor light etc I'm interested to know does anyone park thier gtr somewhere other than home? Best alarms? etc

Open to ideas

Dazz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65559-avoiding-theft/
Share on other sites

QuickTrack or similiar is about the best protection, as well as an alarm that meets AUS and International specs. Mongoose make about the only range in which every alarm meets those specs (3 stage immobilisation, all black wiring, internal relays only, etc) I think. Vipers upper spec stuff does, but not their cheap gear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65559-avoiding-theft/#findComment-1224777
Share on other sites

I saw this thing a guy got from jaycar. It was like a little remote sensor. You could put it anywhere. it came with a pager like thing which went off when motion was detected on the remote sensor. Kinda good if you can't see your GT-R because the sensor will notify you when there is movement that should't be there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65559-avoiding-theft/#findComment-1224890
Share on other sites

Internal horn. Best ever!

I have heard of people jigging the lock and lieing in the car until you disabled the alarm, alot of people just look at the car, if there is no-one around, turn it off then look at it for a few minutes in case someone returns. Then they sit up and shimmy the lock and away with your car.

Internal horn stops that, if its hella fkn loud in the car, he aint gonna lie in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65559-avoiding-theft/#findComment-1224938
Share on other sites

I dont think I'd ever trust my cars wellbeing to something as simple as a single switch for the battery (not to mention the electronic parts that will shat having no constant power feed to maintain settings)....

3 stage immobilisation is much better, especially when coupled with QuickTrack or similiar in case they use a tilt tray. Internal siren is a good idea, but I've yet to see one that is loud enough to actually stop you fiddling in there. I've been in a car with apparently "THE LOUDEST LEGALLY AVAILABLE SIREN!!!" advertised on the packet... I was in there long enough to pinch it. I would have disconnected the siren too, cept the owner was next to me and I doubt he would have appreciated me doing that :)

Get an ultrasonic sensor if you want the coolness of a warning chirp when someone goes near the car. It has 2 fields, an interior and exterior field. If someone triggers the exterior field it chirps and alarm, but if they trigger the interior field the alarm goes off.

And get a pager too, so if you are out of hearing distance of the alarm you still get a notification.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65559-avoiding-theft/#findComment-1226440
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...