Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*UPDATE*

Alright. I decided if I am getting one, I am gonna get the GREDDY V-SPL, unless it's more difficult to fit.

Has anyone fitted one of these to a R32 GTST? I am curious how easily they go in (need to cut bar/fan?)

/End Update

Gday Guys,

I am just trying to decide which intercooler kit I should get.

What is the realistic difference between them? Is it really going to matter on a 32 gtst that will never see 200RKW? I am guessing I might get it to like 170 but I won't ever go to 200. Just to give you an idea.

The options I am looking at.

ARC (From NissanSilvia.com sponsor)

M073 500x260x70 Core

- Cross Flow Piping

- Hoses

- Brackets

- Everything required to install

Price - $1300 Shipped (may have to pay $200 tax, but doubtful)

Greddy (Fron Nengun)

R-SPL 192 x 250 x 119mm, $ 1,108.99

R SPL-HG 240 x 600 x 76mm $ 1,384.76

V-SPL 276 x 600 x 76mm, $ 1,140.87

Hybrid...well i havnt seriously looked...but around the $1000? mark

What do you think is the best buy? Can someone tell me the difference in the V-SPL and the R-SPL?

Thanks guys

Chris

Look on the websit of Nungun it tells you what the difference between the R & the V is...

Hybrid are decent with bar and plate cores most of them. If your not going past 200rwkw then I think that some of the above especially the ARC one is a bit over the top..then again it may add to resale...

Hybrid will be cheaper, check out the group buys on here there is always a good deal

Thanks, I read about the difference in the V/R-SPL on the site, but what does it mean comparative to my needs. I mean, it says the V-SPL is for low boost or whatever, so what is defined as low boost? Basically which would best suit my needs. And if the hybrid is good enough, is there any point going to the greddy/arc. I mean it's only an extra $1-300 ...

the greedy v-spl will more than suit what your looking for. Personally, i'd go the jap brand but thats just me as i like the reassurance of knowing i have a japanese intercooler on a japanese car by a respected aftermarket parts company. (they would obviously know what they are doing when making parts). Price is great if you buy from nengun. I have one of these and it is great.

I cant really comment on the hybrid coolers too much except to say some people say they stink, others say you get what you pay for but then there are many people who use them and they work very well. A friend if mine with an s14a has one on his car and it sees 190rwkw and it works a treat.

Maybe ask your mechanic as well before you make a decision...

170 rwkw - Cheapest option.

Hybrid.

that doesn't mean they are crap.

they are cheap.

there are people with well over 250rwkw with those coolers.

ARC is some damn good quality stuff though.. but I can't justify that much money for a heat exchange.

Alternatively, GET a R33 gtr cooler and get custom pipes made up.

That will be my option for my next car.. if it doesn't already have FMIC..

Maybe ask your mechanic as well before you make a decision...

Trust SAU people before a mechanic. I have only had 1 good experience with a workshop.

I have asked around the people I know, and they seem to reckon the ARC would be kewl (image) but the Greddy VSPL will do fine up to around 250RWKW, which is far out of my reach with my budget.

I think for the extra $100 I'd go greddy over the hybrid, purely for the name, knowing it will be quality.

The ARC I have my doubts as it's a new trader, so not too much feedback on him ATM.

Looks like the Greddy is the go.

Alternatively, GET a R33 gtr cooler and get custom pipes made up.

That will be my option for my next car.. if it doesn't already have FMIC..

I went to the only place I trust around my area, and they want $1300 for mild steel, $1800 for stainless for the piping, and they want $1300 for the intercooler (brand was iceblue...or icecold...or something like that)

Stupid thing is my mate had his 180 piped up with stainless for about $600ish at the same place. Surely the 32's arent THAT different!

So they can keep it, I'll get a brand name kit for much less thanks very much!

Although buying a cooler off the forum or custom made may be the cheap way out (not to hang sh!t on anyone) but you cannot be garuanteed that the cooler is of top quality.

For an example a friend of mine had a custom made 240 x 600 x 76mm cooler and it was good for letting off some cool sounding cooler noises :( but it was not pressurised correctly, it would peak at 15psi then drop to 10psi higher in the rev range.

And sure you may be able to purchase a custom made for say $300 then piping $350 - $400 (I was quoted for an R33) then by the time you buy the appropriate brackets/clamps/silicon hoses there goes another $150 if not more.

You do the math on that, but I'd much rather the assurance of buying a japanese made cooler that comes with everything to bolt straight in. Personally I am looking at a Greddy V-SPL from Nengun also and I was told the kit even comes with a stencil to cut out the hole for the left hand side piping. Now that tells you they have put thought into exactly what a purchaser wants!

My 2 cents

yep GTR...for value.

If new I'd go GREDDY/TRUST. Its what's inside that counts. Hybrid have dense truck core type internals, Trust have a cerated H shape which increases surface area without causing resriction. This gives less boost drop and more flow.

Also another think I have learnt...a slight overkill is always better because the power you have is never enough.

I'll say what I always seem to say - have you considered an R34 GTT cooler? Will be more than adequate for your needs (:)

You will need to modify the stock piping slightly to make it fit, but not too hard.

yup, get a GTR and makes the radiator hotter

GTT cooler should end up $4 - 500 cheaper plus do the job (170rwkw),

but u don't have a "FMIC" which looks many many times better :)

GTR cooler will be my pick if u will getting close to 200

if u really want a new FMIC kit

Someone in NS.com done some testing with a whole range of coolers - (include trust, hybrid..etc)

Test is about the pressure dropped before and after the intercooler and the cooling effects

All of them were very close to each other.

But Blitz seems to do the best

HERE IS A LINK SHOWING CORES - Trust COOLER INTERNALS

V-spl is not a real great cooler it has no internal fins only ridges so cooling ability is far lower than R-spl and Blitz LM but flow is good.

Blitz LM & V-spl are in the same price range but LM design is far superior. it equal to the R-spl which is 1 price range over.

GTR cooler is a good cheap option if your thinking of doing the piping yourself, ARC have been around for many years in Japan and are well known for their CAI, intercoolers, radiators. they are made by hand and fit perfect no modifications or cutting of the front bar needed. Greddy also good if you like that polished finish, good value for money. Hybrid is a mass produced item made in china, major flaw is the quality of hybrid piping

I have a genuine Hybrid r33 gtst kit

Has been on the car for over 18 months

The piping finish is a problem

When they advertise "polished piping" what they forget to say it is chrome plated alloy piping which flakes off after about 6 months. Looks like crap.

If you are after a complete kit for $1000 try uniquie autosports, they now have $999 kits to suit all cars, with australian made mandral bent alloy piping and chinese coolers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...