Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, im looking at getting a hks gt-rs turbo for my car along with injectors, fuel rail, pump and already got a pwr fc and exhaust and cooler. Does anyone know much about the gt-rs, all i know is that its good for 400hp(im aiming for 360) or does anyone already have one and do they like it, just want some feedback on the turbo, like if it bolts straight on and what rpm im it spools at etc.

Thanx guys.

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65658-rb25det-and-a-hks-gt-rs/
Share on other sites

Just my car retuned today with a Z32 air flow meter and got 270rwkw. I think a GTRS would be hard to beat for response and power, it reached 15psi at 3400rpm and 17psi at 3800rpm and is set to 1.2bar. The HKS turbo kit does bolt straight on comes with wastgate and all lines.

Z32 definitely worth getting gives the tuner heap better resolution so both 1.2 and 0.9 bar are heaps better, 0.9 bar almost feels like the power I had at 1.2bar before without the Z32.

Other mods are full 3 inch exshaust, FMIC, PFC and boost kit, nismo 555cc injector, exhaust cam, lightened flywheel and ceramic clutch, spitfire coils and bosch 044 fuel pump.

Thats a sweet out come reedy, what else you got done to da motor?

I'm also keen to know what other mods have been done...

I'm contemplating upgrading my turbo in around 12 months time and just want to make sure I make all the other necessary mods in the mean time to ensure that I can get the best of my new turbo once I decide on which kit to get. I was originally thinking of going down the gcg hi-flow path (aiming for 240-250rwkw), but your results are pretty impressive and kinda justify spending the extra money on getting the GT-RS.

What I'd be interested to know is:

1. Do you need a catch can at this power level?

2. What fuel pumps are people using to get there? I have one of those Walbro 255 thingos but now I'm not sure if I should use it. Surely a surge tank is unnecessary?

3. Is everybody using a pfc? I am thinking piggy back but I have an advantage in that my ecu has previously been tuned (read chipped) so the mid range dip is gone as are the limiters such as speed cut.

The only other mods are suspension but in more detail i've got;

-Full 3 inch exhaust with high pressure coated dump, magnaflow twin tip.

-Front mount intercooler 600x300x70 tube and fin core

-Bosch 044 fuel pump

-Spitfire ignition coils

-Power FC and boost kit

-Adjustable exhaust cam gear

-Nismo 555cc injectors

-HKS GT-RS turbo kit

-Xtreme billet lightened flywheel

-UAS sports clutch kit

-Tein super street coilovers

-Whiteline front and rear swaybars

-JIC tension rods, front negative upper link, rear adjustable upper link

I think its worth spending the extra money on the gtrs rather than a high flow cost about $3000 with shipping and got $300 back for old turbo and you get new turbo external wastegate and oil lines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...