Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is strongly not recommended to run your car hard until it's up to proper operating temperature.

I know with my kart racing that we shouldn't push it hard until the temp. is up as the piston will obviously be revving hard causing friction and in turn heat. When something heats up it expands, if the piston/ring expand and the cylinder doesn't (because it's in the process of warming the coolant/water around the cylinder) then it can cause the engine to brake.

Even though you have oil lubricating the parts, if something is heating/expanding at a different rate to another part it causes problems.

Espectually with turbos, as the compressor/turbine wheel heat up and expand, the turbo housing must expand with it.

It's like when in bed with a girl, if you put something fat and hard into...... u get the point :)

Yep, you need to work gently her to get her up to operating temperature.

If you don't then the lube won't be doing its job and you will chew out her lumps. :)

Water temp is irrelevant, once water temp is up to operating temp you then have to wait approx 7mins for the oil to come up to operating temp.

So if the Skyline is running correctly this will be around 10mins of driving.

Mine takes 2-3mins for the water temp to come up.

And dont forget that even if you warm up the engine's temps to operating range while stationary (eg in the morning), your gearbox wouldn't have had the chance to warm up and would need a few mins to catch up.

No never rev it till it's reached operating temp.

But hey if you do and u blow the motor which u will, I can find u a buyer who will take it off ur hands for cheap.

PS: I bought my gtst off a p plater who did exactly that, I snapped it up for real cheap :(

Especially if you run forged piston's, these are ment to be warmed up properly as they expand and contract in the cylinder, You can hear it when the car is cold if you try and rev over 3k it doesnt sound all their.

This is the same when you are running in you'r new forged piston engine, too much RPM = boost = air blowing past rings cause not run in properly.

As other's have said you'r just asking for trouble.

I dunno about no >2500RPM for 10 mins, there's no way I'd spend that long that low with my RB20DET, i'd never get anywhere! ;)

For me i just pay attention to how "hard" i drive it rather than keeping it below a set Revs amount, I'll rev up to 3500RPM odd but do it smoothly, no sharp acceleration or hard launches, until it gets warm! :(

exactly, if you keep it under boost it means your not gonna be pulling silly revs anyway.

by the way why would you want to drive your car hard when the water temp is cool? If you do boost it around when cold, the water temp will come up super fast anyways.

As for your 60 degree running temperature due to a better cooling system, what happened to your thermostat?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...