Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone out there with a RB Engine or SR Engine who wants thier oil or spark plugs changed and doesnt have the time to do it yourself?

I can do it for you, and if you dont live too far from the Adelaide CBD i'll come to you and help you out.

Oil Change - $30 labour - should be changed every 6000kms if you have a turbo

- Recommend Shell Helix Ultra

Spark Plugs - $30 labour - should be changed every 8000kms

- Recommend NGK Coopers 7 Series(Colder - Handles extra boost better) 0.8mm

Coolant flush - $30 labour - should be changed once a year if your picky

- Recommend Honda, Subaru coolant that you can buy from dealers

but I'd rather use red line water wetter mixed with distilled water. I can get this for you too from the store but you could probably get it cheaper if you did your research.

You can provide all the stuff, I'll just put it in for you.

But i can go down to sprint or motor traders to get it for you if your that lazy.

PM me if interested.

Will

0412847709

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66038-sparkies-oil-changes/
Share on other sites

No catch, I just like working on these cars and that small pocket money allows me to save for my crash repairer bill.

:O

Gear box oil will be difficult without access to a pit or hoist, as normally the drain and top up screws are done up by some sumo in japan with a fetish of doing up screws tight, so u need quite some leverage space to get those bastards out.

Will

:D

I can now do your diff oil onsite providing your car isnt too low and I can sqeeze under thier.

No one interested yet? Is everyone paying garages to do this? Why not get it done cheaper and onsite!

I prefer skylines, cause those sr20 oil filters are a bitch to take off.

do you think that you can give me a hand with removing an oil filter from a sr20. Ive tried many wrenches with no luck, the dam oil filter itself is too small and confined. But i did replace it once before just cant now for some reason.

noz you need to jackup the car then if you take out the speedo cable at the rear of the gearbox on a SR it will drain the fuild then undo the nut on the side of the gearbox and run a hose into the hole get out from under the car a pour a bottle of g/d fuild in presto instant g/b oil change no need for pit

that sounds pretty straight forward. i'd follow these step when changing the g/b fluid. But what i need help with though is removing the oil filter. When i last changed it, i think i placed one which does not allow me to have enough leverage to twist the filter off and ive tried all tyres of oil filter wrenches with no success. Ive seen another type, non clamping and twisitng anti-closewise model, where you just place it over the filter and tighten a screw then twist. The only one with this is that the handle you use to twist seems to be too long to have enough clearance to undo the filter. any suggestions.

I like the good ol Copper v-groove sparky's (BCPR6E for .8mm gap).

Motor traders are the cheapest.

They don't appear to foul as easy when running the car a little rich.

In the past I've had one set in as long as 25,000km's running 1-1.1bar without missing a beat. I pulled them out and they still looked perfect. Threw new ones in and didn't notice any difference. :(

Hey Nozila,

I have a tool with mods that I can do it with. I've changed it around 5 times in my life time with hands only all where bitches, but using this thing made it a little easier, but its still a bitch.

I surely can do it. Get into contact with me.

Will

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...