Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

long story short, got defected at the RTA defect station while i was in newy on sat night...

1) Tyre... rear driver's side tyre is shit house (has a slow leak, all other tyres are plenty fine) that's fine and valid so i'm gettin a new set of wheels and tyres.

Says i gotta get a blue slip though even though i have (and showed them) an engineers certificate for the car.

The problem on the night was they had no idea what they where doing and couldn't identify the year of the vehicle 'cause it's a 15yr rule import (no green plate). so they said "we don't have time to read through the whole engineers certificate so just go and get a blue slip done."

I rang on monday and spoke to the manager (was a bit pissed that i had a certificate and they didn't know what to do with it) and he chased around for me then rang back later and told me the certificate is not on file so i gotta get a blue slip and get it all on file.

No idea why it's not on file, gave it all to the RTA when i got the car but that's kool...

Ok so, where i'm at now:

Gotta get a blue slip (either tomorrow or saturday mornin ideally). Which according to the bloke i just phoned up means i gotta box in the pod filters?

is that right, do i have to spend more money on doing that? if so, how much and where is the cheapest simplest solution or does anyone have a template to make my own?

If not, who would you advise for a blue slip? Somewhere close(ish) to Hornsby if ya can please :P

All help appreciated greatly.

Cheers guys and gals.

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66145-help-please/
Share on other sites

I just got a blue slip for my BMW about 10 minutes ago.

I asked him about the air filter vs. boxed air filter thing and he rang up the RTA for me... He came back and said that NO/NADA/NOTHING is allowed to be changed in respect to the standard air box. No pod filter, no foam filters, no panel filters, no dirty socks... Boxed or unboxed.

But I got my GTR pink slipped just fine with exposed APEXi pod filters by another mechanic so who knows.

It obviously depends on which mechanic you take your car to, and which RTA genius answers your phone call :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66145-help-please/#findComment-1234001
Share on other sites

yeah, i went to the RTA yesty to do my rego... they won't let me rego the car because the defect is outsanding so i gotta sort that crap out on sat mornin... i asked the chick at the RTA if they are shown as on file etc and she said NO!.... just me getting screwed outta more money by the government i guess...

fair enough that the tyre is no good... that's rectified now :D but enough of all the other bullsh*%t just cause they didn't know what they where doing in the first place :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66145-help-please/#findComment-1235996
Share on other sites

yeah they are stupid. I had the same prob with airfilter just the other week. I talked to engineers, blue slip guys and the rta. (rta guys were knobs!!)

Anyway you have to have your pod filter boxed in a good solid box, then get it engineered. The engineer i talked to said he can't really engineer it without a box. Dunno how u got engineers cert without it enclosed.

Might be easier (as i did) to borrow/purchase original airbox assy to get through blue slip. Then just put yours straight back in (could be a pain if you get defected again any time soon)

Anyway just thought i'd let ya know what i've been told. Good luck man

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66145-help-please/#findComment-1236962
Share on other sites

ok, an update for anyone interested...

as i said above, the rta at the defect station in newcastle had no idea what they where doin... i had the engineers certificate, import approval sheets, my licence, they had the rego to cross check for details...

here's the bit where that all becomes somewhat relevent

Had the blue slip done sat... NO WUCKERS AT ALL :) - still gonna get a custome heat shield made up though, just havn't gotten round to it yet :D

The guy who did the blue slip (M & C ZEC Automotive - EXCELLENT service there!!!); rang the guys in newcastle to see why he was doin it and they said they wanted to make sure the car wasn't stolen!!! LOL!!! dumb arses...

they could've just looked at the paperwork then looked at the fact that it's registered in my name to see that!!! LOL!!!!

so all is good... just gotta pay the defect for myself being stupid enough to drive around with 1 really bad tyre.

Thanks for all the help everyone ! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66145-help-please/#findComment-1238837
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...