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R32 GTR stock solenoid to AVC-R solenoid

paulR32gtr

By paulR32gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

[accidentally posted this in the Tut/diy/faq section]

I have installed an AVC-R boost controller on my R32 GTR - everything wired up properly, all readings correct - however I am unable to get over about .7kg/cm2 ~ 10psi. I can hear the solenoid ticking away - however settings do not make a difference - the boost also acts the same with the AVC-R set to OFF.

I suspect this has to do with the solenoid plumbing. I basically plumbed it up using the same hoses as the stock solenoid - removing the boost restrictor at the same time. Oh and also unplugging/removing the stock solenoid.

The solenoid is using the correct ports (NO and COM).

Question is - are there any other overboost safety devices / restrictors that might be stopping me? Has anyone else had this problem?

Also, which hose goes to the actuators - the one with the restrictor or the one without?

Paul

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
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No hoses should have a restrictor in it, One from manifold or were ever you choose to get the pressure from and one to the actuator.

Sorry was a little unclear - was referring to the stock GTR solenoid hoses - there is one that has a brass restrictor in it - is this the hose that goes to the wastegate actuators on a stock GTR ? Or the other one that does not have the restrictor in it ?

Its easier to use these stock hoses than running my own.

MidnightGTR Community Regular

MidnightGTR

Posted
Posted

make sure you got it setup for internal wastgates not external, I know you said its in right but check the manual and double check your settings.

I dont know which way its setup using the factory hoses, we ran new ones and mounted the solenoid near the filters to keep the hose length short.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

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when I installed my Blitz SBC iD III I used new hoses as well. it showed me which ones to block off :P  works a treat!!

Kind of wishing I bought one of those now :(

Naah I am sure the AVC-R will be good once I work out what I've done wrong. Might just run some new hoses straight off the actuators.

S14 Drift! Newbie

S14 Drift!

Posted
Posted

If you are still using the stock vaccum line going to the stock solenoid, that's your mistake!

The stock solenoid only bleed air from the line going to the wastegate actuator, while the AVC-R or Blitz SBC-ID is a ON/OFF switch that control the boost going to the wastegate actuator!

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted
Kind of wishing I bought one of those now  :)  

Naah I am sure the AVC-R will be good once I work out what I've done wrong. Might just run some new hoses straight off the actuators.

yeah, it was asnap to install :D I was tossing up between the AVC-R and the SBC iD III and decided to han out the extra cash. I'm sure the AVC-R will work with dedicated hoses :)

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you are still using the stock vaccum line going to the stock solenoid, that's your mistake!

The stock solenoid only bleed air from the line going to the wastegate actuator, while the AVC-R or Blitz SBC-ID is a ON/OFF switch that control the boost going to the wastegate actuator!

I should've figured Nissan would use a method that provides a fail safe lower boost pressure if the solenoid dies - albeit at the expense of boost response. It's just so tight in that engine bay to trace out how it's set up - feeling around under the intake manifold provides no information whatsoever!

Thanks for the tip - will sort it out in the morning :P

  • 2 weeks later...
paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For anybody installing an AVC-R in their GTR - heres a how to for what I ended up doing to minimise hassle with mounting the solenoid / running lines. Works well and I dont have any problems with spikes etc.

The R32 GTR manual has a very handly Vacuum diagram - invaluable in working out which line goes where. Dont think the R33 one has it, but the 32 one should be same/similar to 33/34.

1. Remove / chop section of stock line with boost restrictor in it (yellow line on the hose off the stock solenoid). This line is the one that feeds the stock solenoid.

2. Remove stock solenoid of course

3. Make up a mount out of some thick/solid aluminium (bunnings has approx 30cmx30cm squares of it) - drill out two large holes big enough to insert the factory solenoid mount rubbers (so they line up with the stock mount), and also four holes to mount the AVC-R solenoid onto. This means you can completely separate the solenoid from the chassis with the factory rubber mounts, and the AVC-R rubber also helps - I am unable to hear the solenoid operating whatsoever.

4. Connect the factory lines up to the new solenoid - remember the one that had the boost restrictor in it is the feed from the manifold, the other the one we are going to use to feed the wastegate actuators. Use the hose clamps supplied with your AVC-R on all connections.

5. The line that returns to the intake does so into the factory blow off return pipe just before it connects up to the intake of the rear turbo. Remove this little piece of hose and block up the intake pipe nipple to avoid dirt getting into your intake (use vacuum caps found at your local tee piece stand and a cable tie for good measure). From that hard line that was returning to the intake, run some vacuum hose and pop a tee piece on the end (I used a Y piece which fits with the angles a bit better.

6. Now diconnect the hoses off your wastegate actuators and cap the factory feeds to these. On the rear I used another vacuum cap and cable tie, the other end was a bastard to get to without removing pipes, so I put a straight piece in the hose and capped+tied it. Please note I also have an Apexi pod kit, can imagine it would be very hard getting to these with the factory air box in place so you may need to remove this is you are still using this.

7. Now off the Y piece, run vacuum host to each wastegate actuator. Use the hose clamps supplied with your AVC-R on all connections.

8. Check all connections again, ensure hoses are free standing where appropriate to avoid melted/worn vacuum hoses and you are done.

Long bent needle nose pliers are your friend during this entire process.

  • 3 years later...
Flash89 Mentor

Flash89

Posted
Posted

hey there just bring this up again

hope ya guys can help me out.

got some pics here and just wanna straighten out, so there is a line that goes to the actualtors but cant be used for the AVC-R for some reason so block the lines and take off the lines that go to the actualtors and block them.

take off the hose that is on the rear turbo intake and block, use a "T" or "Y" peice then run some hose the each of the actualtors, with the hose under the plenum from the same line connect that to the solenoid.

just wondering why cant i use the line that is already connected to the actualtors and block the line that goes to the intake

heres the pic of the lines under the plenum

thanks

post-25174-1210430614_thumb.jpg

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

The one you have circled saying is where pressure comes from is actually the vacuum signal for the stock blow off valves. So leave that one alone. The rear most pipe of the other 2 is the one that goes to the recirculation pipe that is plumbed into the rear turbo intake. The other goes to the wastegate actuators.

When i last installed an AVC-R i got the installation manual from the USA Apexi website here: http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/45.pdf

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

The actuators have a base setting so if anything goes wrong they just revert to that, which im guessing would be lower anyway. The stock solinoid works differently so thats why the extra hose is there. Im guessing the ECU uses the stock pressure sensor to judge when to bleed and it uses the vacuum pickup in the inlet pipe to operate the wastegate actuators. The solinoid being just a switch.

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