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RB25DET - PISTONS & RODS

R33RWKW

By R33RWKW,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R33RWKW Proficient

R33RWKW

Posted
Posted

I am about to have my engine rebuilt and was looking for some extra advice on what type/quality pistons & rods (don't think forgies will keep me in my price range) could be used to keep me within $6000.00. Basically I want to have the strongest/reliable engine rebuilt as possible (not for speed), but keeping the cost at $6100.00 tops.(not including engine out & in).

Cheers,

Chris

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66275-rb25det-pistons-rods/
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pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

maybe if you want to try to keep cost down go rb26 rods and arias piston (forged) rods ~$300 and pistons ~$1250 cant see the rest of the build going anywhere near $6000 if so may you need to shop around .

pete

ps.i'm currently runing these rods at ~400rwkw no worries and there are others running more

R33RWKW Proficient

R33RWKW

Posted
  • Author
Posted
maybe if you want to try to keep cost down go rb26 rods and arias piston (forged) rods ~$300 and pistons ~$1250 cant see the rest of the build going anywhere near $6000 if so may you need to shop around .

pete

ps.i'm currently runing these rods at ~400rwkw no worries and there are others running more

Thanks pnblight, I'll go and see my engine builder and see what we can do with pricing in Melbourne.

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

I had mine rebuilt with oversize Arias forgies, new bearings etc, honed, crank cleaned up (it was scored)... basically a complete recondition, with new water pump, whole lot got a fresh coat of paint etc etc... minus the in/out labour it cost it was about $4,000... plus if you can help out with the labour or can get mates rates on removing and stripping the engine I can't see why for $6,000 you can't get a drive in, drive out package... and a totally fresh forged engine!

If you are clever about it you might even be able to squeeze some cams into your budget;)

R33RWKW Proficient

R33RWKW

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I had mine rebuilt with oversize Arias forgies, new bearings etc, honed, crank cleaned up (it was scored)... basically a complete recondition, with new water pump, whole lot got a fresh coat of paint etc etc... minus the in/out labour it cost it was about $4,000... plus if you can help out with the labour or can get mates rates on removing and stripping the engine I can't see why for $6,000 you can't get a drive in, drive out package... and a totally fresh forged engine!

If you are clever about it you might even be able to squeeze some cams into your budget;)

Thanks Nick,

I will try and source the pistons and rods and give them to my engine builder if he can't match prices.

Cheers,

Chris

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Gotta agree. I run the Arias and GTR rods. Get the block cleaned and O ringed, balance the bottom end and lighten the flywheel. Also have the crank checked for bend and the plugs pulled to clean through. X ray everything that can be done. Costs about 1200 for the good bottom end work including ACL Race bearings (RB30 main and SR20 Big end) and the prices posted above for the other parts are spot on.

I currently run 220rwkw happily at the racetrack and expect it to last.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Thanks pnblight,  I'll go and see my engine builder and see what we can do with pricing in Melbourne.

go the arias pistons & GTR rods.

thats what im running with mine and its worked fine so far.

As for your engine builder. I would tell you to go to Race Pace Motorsport and no-one else.

highly reccomended, without a doubt the best builder in Melb for an RB motor

55Nat Enthusiast

55Nat

Posted
Posted

You have read it wrong or i have misinterperated what i said,

What i didn't mean to say is that he needs headwork done to be able to run Arias piston's and GTR rods, what i ment to say is that if he's go to rev to 8,000rpm which is what GTR rods are made for then headwork will need to be done.

Why does it need to be done, because the standard valve springs are not ment for 8,000rpm, standard cam's will run out of puff etc.

:)

Nat

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

The RB26 rods are a good idea, just make sure you fit new bolts to them. You should never reuse rod bolts. Fit a set of ARP bolts and have the rods resized and you shouldn't have a problem.

The standard RB25 rods are a toy compared to a 26 and they do break through the beam, especially when engine braking where the tensile loads are high.

If you have a spare $1500 a set of REV conrods are well worth fitting. Compare the price to properly prepping a set of 26 rods: buying the rods, buying bolts, beam polish, shot peening, close and grind, balance, pin fit etc to do them properly, you save around $800 compared to a brand new set that are much stronger and new.

It really depends on what you plan to do with the engine but I've found most people eventually try for more performance once the new engine is up and going and a set of aftermarket rods are pretty cheap insurance.

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