Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just wanted to see a quick show of hands who uses octane booster for there car.

About once a month i buy wynns octane booster roughly around 15 bucks, not sure if it does anything, well i hope so....

says it cleans the injectors, minimises pinging and so on...

Speaking to my local BP, the guy said he can get me 20L drum from BP rated at 100 over the 98 ultimate which i usually pump into the car...hasnt given me a price yet..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/
Share on other sites

With my last car I always ran Premium and an Octane Booster, mostly becasue of where I live adn not trusting the fuel.. I religiously endorse Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster.. It costs more than most others, but doesn;t leave a bad smell. Some Octane boosters actually only slow the burn rate of the fuel down, this is not always what you may want.

A good true Octane Booster is Toluene, aka Methyl Benzine, that stuff has a RON of 130 and a MON of 124, costs about $25 for 4L which would treat one tank of fuel quite nicley. This stuff will increase the Octane effective rating of your fuel...

What is your intention for running the Octane Booster, are you going to increase Timing advance, run a little extra boost, or is it just for security?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1239869
Share on other sites

Avgas is leaded dude, bye bye EGO sensor.. Avgas is not a good idea.. Cat Converters aren't fond either..

Toluene can be purchased from any Hardware store..

If you have access to 98 and your car is that stock, Toluene will do nothing for you, you will get no extra performance or protection over 98.. I'd stick with it and save the extra $$$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1239889
Share on other sites

Most of these octane boosters are just crap/scams.

Zoom magazine tested about 40 different types a few months back.

Out of all of them, there was only one that allowed them to add a few deg more timing.

You might as well throw your money in the bin, that's all your doing with octane boosters.

If you could increase the octane of your tank of fuel by adding a $10 product, don't you think the fuel makers would do it and sell higher ron fuel.

Not to mention many people have found it fouls your plugs as well.

Be weary, of something that cost a few dollars and claims it can do big things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1239891
Share on other sites

Modern PULP such as optimax, ultimate, vortex have loads of cleaners already to keep the fuel system clean.

Extra injector cleaners aren't needed.

For those of use lucky enough to have access to any of those fuels.... The rest of us, (read people living in the sticks) use what we can get.. Like I said above, the only Octane Booster I use is Nulon Pro Strength which has had no advesre effects on my plugs, and has given me some nice warm fuzzy feelings of security, false it 'may' be...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1240241
Share on other sites

Most of these octane boosters are just crap/scams.

Zoom magazine tested about 40 different types a few months back.

Out of all of them, there was only one that allowed them to add a few deg more timing.

You might as well throw your money in the bin, that's all your doing with octane boosters.

If you could increase the octane of your tank of  fuel by adding a $10 product, don't you think the fuel makers would do it and sell higher ron fuel.

Not to mention many people have found it fouls your plugs as well.

Be weary, of something that cost a few dollars and claims it can do big things.

Don't spose you remember which Octane Boost that was do you, or know which issue the review was in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1240812
Share on other sites

This shows what I expected, NF used to have a chart, which I ahve at work in fact, about this and they put Nulon Pro Strength on teh smae par as their own.. I will stick with Nulon Pro Strength as I get it cheap through Coventries on a company discount..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1245096
Share on other sites

Have a look at the MRT forums, Brett M doesn't have any nice things to say about octane boosters and recomments toluene.

I have used both Nulon pro strength and Toluene and have not really had any ill effects,

Although I have not had the plugs out or used either for longperiods of time.

A $45 20L drum of toluene at about a 10% mix will last for 4 or 5 tanks where the nulon prostrength is $20 a pop. So the toluene does work out a cheaper in the long run.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1245480
Share on other sites

The Nulon branded octane booster also came out on top of a recent street machine octane booster test. (Don't actually have that one handy to scan though)

So if you are going to use one, i guess this one has been proven by a number of people.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66657-octane-boosters/#findComment-1246347
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...