Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

powerfc $1100 + $350 tune

fmic $1200 supplied and fitted

exhaust $1300 supplied and fitted (3" turbo back with new front/dump pipe, cat, muffler)

boost controller $350 (second hand)

cold air intake with pod $485 ($200 for box, $85 for pod)

tyres $800 = 255's x 17 (guessing)

then save for

new clutch $1400

z32 airflow meter $300

injectors $700

cams $1400

turbo $2600

powerfc $1100 + $350 tune

fmic $1200 supplied and fitted

exhaust $1300 supplied and fitted (3" turbo back with new front/dump pipe, cat, muffler)

boost controller $350 (second hand)

cold air intake with pod $485 ($200 for box, $85 for pod)

tyres $800 = 255's x 17 (guessing)

 

then save for  

 

new clutch $1400

z32 airflow meter $300

injectors $700

cams $1400

turbo $2600

awesome...what sort of stats would i be lookin at roughly? 0-400 time....0-100 time...kw's...torque etc

i would bleed valve $90

fmic $1200

exhaust $1000(approx)

fuel pump($300-400) (depending on if you plan to go a bigger turbo later on)

than save the rest of the $$ till you get money for a big turbo and intend to push big hp.

you can get tyres but with that set-up i gave you, you should make around 200rwkw on 12-14psi. you should be looking at mid-low 13's

your going to need some sort of engine management to see 200rwkw , the factory ecu will just run way to rich plus the fuel cut and speed cut issues .

I would get

powerfc $1100 + $350 tune

fmic $1200 supplied and fitted

exhaust $1000 supplied and fitted (3" turbo back with new front/dump pipe, cat, muffler in mild steel)

boost controller $500 (avcr)

this should hit 200rwkw

then you need

z32 afm

fuel pump

injectors

and a new turbo , gcg hiflow ($1800) would give you approx 250rwkw . Some sort of GT30ish turbo with custom manifold and external gate would see 300-320 . possibly more but 300rwkw would be the limits of the internals anyway . someone on this forum made 320rwkw with 750nm of torque off a similar gt30 setup , dont know if he had cams or not .

300rwkw should see very low 12s , possibly very high 11s .

powerfc $1100 + $350 tune

fmic $1200 supplied and fitted

exhaust $1300 supplied and fitted (3" turbo back with new front/dump pipe, cat, muffler)

boost controller $350 (second hand)

cold air intake with pod $485 ($200 for box, $85 for pod)

tyres $800 = 255's x 17 (guessing)

With that (which is what i have) 0 to 100 in 4.88 and 1/4 in 13.4 but yet to run down the strip so times arent official per se but the car feels quick and fast

im at that stage (just without the cold air box, its arrived just not fitted) and ive got 172rwkw in non shootout mode. they backed off the tune cos the fuel pump was leaning out. injectors, afm, clutch and fuel pump are at max. im getting z32, fuel pump, cold air box and maybe injectors then will run down 1/4 dont see why i couldnt get a high 12 pass. later on if i was going to continue

tomei cams $1400

twin plate clutch $1200 (ish not sure exactly)

hks gt-rs $2600 or a garret equiv maybe gcg can give you a gt28 combo

whliteline works kit $2000 (i have sway and strut bars already tho)

you would want to make sure you had at least 550cc injectors (not sure if they would even be enough for 280rwkw)

with the gt-rs on 1.3 bar you should get 280rwkw. have seen a few members with gt-rs and simiilar config (most without aftermarket cams) get around 260rwkw. adding cams would bring on boost eailier and increase overall power

i wouldnt go gt30 due to lag required and manifold and ext gate needed, +$1000 easily for the gt30 even if the turbo price is the same

well thats using "adhoc" prices from the for sale and gcg prices off the top off my head. someone may have exact prices somewhere.

your going to need some sort of engine management to see 200rwkw , the factory ecu will just run way to rich plus the fuel cut and speed cut issues

not really.

My first series 1 33 gtst had a full exhaust, pod filter + cai, frontmount, clutch, 14psi on a bleed valve, made 200.1rwkw on APC's dyno and I ran a 13.3 in it once, mind you the rest were mid to high 13's but it is possible with stock ecu, fuel, turbo...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...