Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Well I'm almost there, but I am currently S.T.U.C.K with an injector problem...

The Injectors will not fire and hence it wont start.

I have tested the injectors with a golbe and they are not getting any power/signal.

I am sure that it will run once they are firing but I can not work out why they wont fire.

The fuel rail has pressure, I have had the TPS out and it tested fine but has been rebuilt to make sure.

The throttle system seams to be working fine.

We have perfect spark.

just no fuel.

I have thought about trying a different ECU but surely given spark is ok it wont be the ecu? Perhaps its the Injector power supply? is there a fuse for the injectors?

Any ideas? very frustrated....

Cheers Stirlo!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67153-injector-issue/
Share on other sites

Cheers, but its not actually in any of the fuse box's, we have gone that avenue, we think that it may be the GTR's injector control system? as it may have failed or have a fuse in it. But we dont know where it is and or how, the 32GTR service manual does not specify (ie where is the power supply located and how does the control system work?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67153-injector-issue/#findComment-1247551
Share on other sites

if you are checking the injector cycle with a a test light to the ametuer it looks like they are ****ed cause you would think they need a power pulse or a constant power to fire them but this isnt the case on a gtr. I cant remember its been a while but i think there is a constant earth and the computer provides a week power pulse, its been a while but i remember when i first checked a set i thought they were stuffed cause they didnt work how i expected them to.... best thing is to take the rail out leaving the injector sin and wired and turn it over and see if they are working or not!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67153-injector-issue/#findComment-1247772
Share on other sites

Yeah I dont have a spare ecu atm, but I have been told if spark is ok then the ecu will be ok. there are no error codes on the ecu, it comes up normal.

mate - must just be a loose wire there somewhere.... are you getting ANY noise/ action from the injectors??? I sould be able to lend you my ECU shortly (unless someone has one you can borrow now?) - unlikely, I know - but worth a shot.... Did all the power feed wires get reconnected back to the positive terminal of the battery?

you have fuel pressure at the rail - yes? could always pull an injector and try it on someone else's loom to see what it is doing (I think the injectors themselves are fine). I bet it is something simple...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67153-injector-issue/#findComment-1250057
Share on other sites

we re-addjusted the TPS and reset the ecu, checked voltages at teh ecu etc, but could not fault it.. however! apon doing a screw driver test, have now got the injectors firing and a strong fuel smell,... but we had lost spark???? fixed a fuse and have spark again and fuel...

BUT...

she will not start, it splutters and pops but will not run gets close at times, but just wont catch and run.....

Timing??? thats what it sounds like, Maybe the CAS? I guess the big Q is why?

I have reset the ecu over night and will give it a hit tonight to see if it just comes good.

but Yeah Daniel I would really appreciate a lend of one of your spare ecu's???

could just plug it in and see if it go's! - This would be nice, but judging by the list of problems I have had not likly!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67153-injector-issue/#findComment-1251800
Share on other sites

did you actually get an accurate compression test done on the car?? does it blow smoke when cranking?

the only way to adjust the base (idle) timing is via the CAS, so check this and make sure its in the right position for 20 degrees... even still i have heard/seen people advance and retard their CAS stupid amounts and the car still starts (has no down low power, but still runs) so i dont think its the CAS and/or timing, unless the timing belts not on correctly?

if you get hold of another factory ecu, run diagnostics on yours and it. if both show up ok, sounds more mechanical than electronic to me (and things like timing are electronically controlled on the rb26).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67153-injector-issue/#findComment-1251840
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...