Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What sort of car do you think you'll bring back when you do come home?

I've had my E5 for a few years now. Bought her in 2001, then she was only 3 years old. Sourcing an immaculate, undamaged and low kilometres one is where I spent so much money, then came the tuning :D. When I thought I was done tuning the Evo, I started to look at Chasers but end up spending more money on the Evo. So the Evo is all that's coming home.

They are very nice and the prices are getting better, I have a JZX90 Mark II about to leave I was looking at a 100 but they are still twice the price of a 90 and you can have only so many toys.

One thing I learnt is the 90 and 100 suspension is the same and Supra wheels fit as well.

You will love the stuff avialable out of Hyper Rev for them and on Yahoo Japan.

The motor is smooth as, is it Manual or Auto.

Evos are awesome. Well out of my price range though.

Thanks for the tips DRIFTT. Have you got a link for Hyper Rev?

I had to get an auto unfortunately. The manuals are ridiculously expensive. I heard the split between manual/auto was 10/90, which explains the price premium.

You can get them direct at http://www.news-pub.com/magazine/details.html?pid=13 and you want Vol 86 it covers Mark II, Chaser and Cresta, heaps of stuff in them.

I get mine off Graham at www.japanparts.com and his direct [email protected] or 001181353827364, I like dealing with him and he is a Ex Kiwi and easy to deal with, when you want parts you go Volume 86 JZX100 Chaser page 46, Apexi Induction, nice and easy.

I order a few each month,

As much as its stock man that is nice! I saw my first real life one the other day at my mechanics. Sooooo nice. I just cant get over them.

I wanted one so bad, but about $40k more than the cef for a manual, not quite in the price range (about 2years ago that was tho)

Vol 26, 55 and 86 are all the Chasers...86 being the latest one as mentioned and the perhaps the best one to read first.

I have almost all the Hyper Rev volumes and have been reading them for a number of years, Rezz has seen my full collection (I don't bother with the Honda ones...sorry).

Hyper Rev is good as a guide and parts directory, but beware of the setup power output they claim. If you know your engine you'll know the list of mods on some of the setup printed will not yield xxxhp. Tuning Shops will not tell all their secrets also it's a book to help promote the shop....i.e tuning in Japan. But if you know the tuners circle and you'll know which shop knows their shit :D.

I dont think yo'll be regretting it mate, that car is nice. and Something I would love to own. But I'll stick with the GTR for a while now :(

Nice rims aren't that expensive these days, and a light exhaust is cheap as chips to give it a nice sound. other then that I wouldn't touch it

mark

Haven't got it yet. If you could scan them in, that'd be awesome. The dark blue colour (if it's the stock one) is really nice. The deep dishes shoudl really set it off too. I had to decide between the green and the blue and a car in green came up first, so I bought that one.

Is it a series 1 or 2?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...