Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by macka

That flywheel looks wicked.....

I was going to save up for one so i could replace both clutch and flywheel and 1 hit but as soon as i put my front mount in the clutch blew the same day.........hehe needless to say i still have standard cast fwheel :bahaha:

My clutch is glazed for sure. Still has plenty of material left on it but, will never grip the same and probably break appart if given too hard a time.

Did you change your clutch yourself?

I am about to find out how much of a bastard or not the skyline gearbox is to drop out and put back in.

If you did change the clutch are there any bastard located bolts and things to look out for?

Originally posted by rev210

My clutch is glazed for sure. Still has plenty of material left on it but, will never grip the same and probably break appart if given too hard a time.

Did you change your clutch yourself?

I am about to find out how much of a bastard or not the skyline gearbox is to drop out and put back in.

If you did change the clutch are there any bastard located bolts and things to look out for?

No its actually one of the things i didnt attempt.

Got autoclutch to do the dirty work for once i just handed over the cash

The clutch and flywheel look pretty cool. I have a OS Giken twin plate in mine, after the first two days of being close to undriveable the clutch has bedded in and now it's relatively easy to drive.

Let us know how your clutch feels once its in and the difference the flywheel makes. I find with my lighter flywheel that the car will stall really quickly if you don't keep the revs up. But once you move onto a heavy duty clutch there is no going back.

8000rpm launches??

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

The clutch and flywheel look pretty cool. I have a OS Giken twin plate in mine, after the first two days of being close to undriveable the clutch has bedded in and now it's relatively easy to drive.

Let us know how your clutch feels once its in and the difference the flywheel makes. I find with my lighter flywheel that the car will stall really quickly if you don't keep the revs up. But once you move onto a heavy duty clutch there is no going back.

8000rpm launches??

See'ya :burnout:

What type of lightened flywheel have you got?

Your car stalls because of the 'grab' on the clutch, the OS giken is pretty much 'on' or 'off' (the flywheel doesn't help but I doubt this is the major problem). The clutch I'm putting in is very forgiving, I dove my mates gtr with the same clutch, you'd swear it wasn't a ceramic button style.

The 4.8kg ogura is about the lightest around. I'm still going on the install, forgot how much this type of job sucks. Next time I pay someone else to do it.

The OS Giken Twin Plate comes with a lightened flywheel as part of the package. I agree it is the bite of the clutch which will try and make it stall, but I was told that due to lighter flywheel carrying less momentum when the clutch grabs then it will stop the flywheel much quicker than a standard and hence it is easier to stall.

Don't know if its true but seems plausible.

Well at least you know how to install a clutch, something I would never be game to do.

Good luck with the install.:burnout:

This is the third time so you'll have excuse me if I copy this from one of my previous posts.

My R33 GTS-t has a VSPEC diff, yes it does have the fins on the diff like the VSPEC's. That means that I have the benefit of both traction control and Active LSD. It came from the factory with this so I presume there aren't too many of them around.

The Active LSD is really cool for high speed cornering, causing the back-end to quickly turn in so you can keep the power down.

See'ya

:burnout:

The boxes on the R33's are heavy, so yeah, use a trolly jack for sure. That way you can move it around easy while it's up in the air.

Try and get the box level and alighed right, then put it in and wiggle the crap out of it.

Sometimes it's easier to jack the front of the motor up so the back of it angles down too.

It is a pain in the backside though. I've never had a box go straight in. You can get alignment tools that are supposed to make life really easy.

The last clutch we did on a R32 GTS4t took about an hour to get the box back in !!! So take your time.

Good luck

J

Well the final chapter in the story, title reads " humpty dumpty ".

All the kings horses and men couldn't put the gearbox in again....

Had the mobile mechanic out to give it a go and even he failed. At least I wasn't the only one. Its now in the hands of a workshop with a hoist.

:D

Dave

Ya should have called . I have done 3xGTR's by myself on axle stands with a trolley jack. Trick is to angle the engine down by jacking on the front pulley off the swaybar with a scissor jack. Only has to tilt back a little bit but makes all the difference.

That and extreme patience with a flat board bolted to the jack with a custom wedge to hold the box at the correct angle to slip in .

Took me two hrs the first time just to get the box on to the back of the engine without forcing ( can bend the plate very easy , especially if it's solid centre ) but have got better at it now.

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

Dave

       Ya should have called . I have done 3xGTR's by myself on axle stands with a trolley jack. Trick is to angle the engine down by jacking on the front pulley off the swaybar with a scissor jack. Only has to tilt back a little bit but makes all the difference.

That and extreme patience with a flat board bolted to the jack with a custom wedge to hold the box at the correct angle to slip in .  

Took me two hrs the first time just to get the box on to the back of the engine without forcing ( can bend the plate very easy , especially if it's solid centre ) but have got better at it now.

Ken

Oh well.:D

Thanks for the offer Ken. :D

I tried the angle down thing too but I guess without the wedge it was a bit hard.

Originally posted by gtrken

Dave

       Ya should have called . I have done 3xGTR's by myself on axle stands with a trolley jack. Trick is to angle the engine down by jacking on the front pulley off the swaybar with a scissor jack. Only has to tilt back a little bit but makes all the difference.

That and extreme patience with a flat board bolted to the jack with a custom wedge to hold the box at the correct angle to slip in .  

Took me two hrs the first time just to get the box on to the back of the engine without forcing ( can bend the plate very easy , especially if it's solid centre ) but have got better at it now.

Ken

so is that an offer for when i get mine done?:uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...