Jump to content
SAU Community

Re powering a BMW 525i with RB power

Burns

By Burns,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Burns Proficient

Burns

Posted
Posted

My Grandfather had stuffed the engine in his BM. It has a shattered rocker arm and damaged piston that he has been quoted a minimum of $3000 to have fixed. On top of that the engine is just plain worn out anyway and the auto box is not changing down as it should and making very rough up shifts.

It’s probably only worth $4,000 all fixed up or $1,000 with stuffed engine but he has just spent a fair bit getting dints and damaged paint fixed, new shocks and bushes, brakes and tyres.

I am thinking it might be a better option to re power it with an RB20DE or RB25DE auto.

How much so you think this could be done for?

Im guessing some were between $1500 and $2000 for the engine pack / half cut and probably another $2000 of so for it to be put in maybe less.

It would just be a basic re powering not a performance conversion so could use the stock exhaust and radiator and would not require any of the normal intercooler pipe work so should be reasonably cost effective.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67615-re-powering-a-bmw-525i-with-rb-power/
Share on other sites
Burns Proficient

Burns

Posted
  • Author
Posted

We are not talking performance conversion here. The old bloke is about 80. I think the E34 came with a 1.8 too so a RB20 or RB25 should push is along ok. This is just an alterative to fixing the clapped out and busted stock engine and giving him reliable transport in the car that he loves.

Other wise he will end up in an Echo. I know I don’t want to end up with an Echo as my last car.

pontiff Enthusiast

pontiff

Posted
Posted

Pensinsula BM are quite good as are BM Tech. Also ring BM Spares in Dandenong and find out who they recommend for engine installations, talk to Neville (if he still works there) he knows his BMW's back the front.

The E28 was not that heavy compared to the E34, so weight should not be a problem...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...