Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AS I'M BACK OVERSEAS FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD I'VE DECIDED TO SELL MY R33

IT IS AN:

-1994 turbo white manual

ENGINE/DRIVELINE

-Blitz Lm intercooler

-4 month old apexi pfc + handcontroller

-4 month old pfc boost controller

-K&n air filter

-Blended dump pipe - ceramic coated - 3'' manderal bent exhaust, ceramic coating to 3'' cat, 7'' stainless muffler - work done at exotic exhausts in Brisbane

-Bosch 044 fuel pump in tank

-Nismo adjustable fuel pressure reg

-New clutch 3000k's ago - exeddy hi pressure plate - organic clutch - done by myself, flywheel machined, throwout bearing, spigot bearing - job done properly

-New brake pads / discs machined

-Dynoed / tuned one month ago - originally was 175rwkw now 209rwkw

-2.5 Inches lowered king springs

-Upon purchase 2 years ago(15000klms ago) timing belt and idler pulleys done by myself

-Oil changed every 4000klms - shell fully synthetic

-Filter changed every 2000klms

-NGK inridiums heat range 7 gapped to .85mm

-95000klms

-Perfect for someone who wants to go next step - big turbo / injectors / rb30 bottom end???

Wheels

-17x9 alloys - 255 rear tyres 225 front

Exterior

-Immaculate original body apart from front bumper respray. Was checked before purchase by long term friend who has been in Automotive body business for 7 years. No dents/scratches/absolutely no rust.

Windows tinted maximum legal 1 year ago

Nismo front bonnet lip

Interior

Immaculate original black/grey velour.

Original nissan floor mats

Autometer boost guage

Kenwood cd player

All mods done by myself apart from exhaust and tuning - car has not been thrashed/drifted etc.

12 months rego just paid

Allways kept in a dry garage.

Rarely driven as I am allways away

Upon inspection will not be dissapointed

Fast and smooth. Boost comes on really early Apexi boost control kit

Price $21000 ONO / or nearest offer

Ph: 07 54816229

Gympie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67729-1994-r33-gtst-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Just an idea, why not upload them to photobucket and then post the image tags here. Photobucket resizes automatically.

Alternatively, right click the image, click edit, Image, Stretch & Skew. Set both properties to 50% and you should have an image less than 100K depending on the size of the original.

HTH

Safcossie,

Thanks for that-just bought my first laptop the other day and have been doing a lot of learning - up until a year ago I have been computer illiterate

Cheers

Hi Tim,

I don't see any r33's with Apexi computers, boost controllers here at the same price. You have to look at the condition of the vehicles before making any critisims on prices.

Like I said above - it took me a month to find a good one - I looked at over ten cars and most of them were dogs.

If you were serious about buying a car why would consider asking about the best price without looking at it?

Mate ... i asked for the best price you could do ... as in are you negotiable?? and to what extent. I don't get why its considered an insult when an 18 year old asks about a skyline. Unlike most people i have done well for myself and i'm in the position to buy the car i want which is a skyline. I live in brisbane and i drive and astina ... a fairly nice first car compared to what most people have so grigor why don't you shut the hell up.

I would have come out and had a look at your car mate ... but not anymore.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

people, believe the guy when he says it is a clean car, it's immaculate. I have driven this car and the power delivery is unreal. It has had no expense spared. It is well worth the money asked, you won't find another 33 as clean as this!

Ned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...