Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, which ones had the indicators on the lights and which ones had it on the wheel arch area? coz no-one ive spoken has a clue! :P im just guessing that later ones had it above the wheel arch...

are the tail lights between the 4door and 2door interchangable?

importers generally want 7-8k for a gts-t (rb20), but i have heard some of the really later ones made came with an rb25 stock, if this is true, how much would i expect to pay?

any things to look for when buying one?

thanx for your answers (if you do answer that is)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67793-some-r32-questions/
Share on other sites

ok, which ones had the indicators on the lights and which ones had it on the wheel arch area? coz no-one ive spoken has a clue! :P im just guessing that later ones had it above the wheel arch...

RAWS and old low-volume cars will have indicators on the wheel arch area (I'm guessing you mean the spot just above the GT badge. 15yr old scheme does not require these lights.

are the tail lights between the 4door and 2door interchangable?

From memory (ie reading here), no. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

any things to look for when buying one?

If you're looking at one from an importer, then there isn't much to look for. Check out this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=516 for more info on what "runs well and is mechanically sound" can mean...

If you're looking at buying one in Aust., it's pretty much like buying any other car, but check for rust in the boot and underneath. Most importantly, take the car for a drive, preferably with someone who has/had a similar car. If a vendor wants a deposit before they allow you to drive it, you should prob be very wary. Also try searching, there are other threads out there, and there is a sticky around too.

Hope this helps.

Mark

are the tail lights between the 4door and 2door interchangable?

importers generally want 7-8k for a gts-t (rb20), but i have heard some of the really later ones made came with an rb25 stock, if this is true, how much would i expect to pay?

The tail lights are definately not interchangable, they are different shapes.

Some R32 gts did come out with the rb25, but as non-turbos so youre heaps better off just getting the turbo rb20det.

cowie165, RAWS and old low-volume cars? can you please explain that, coz that means sweet f a here :) sorry

i didnt need to know if it had to have them there, i wanted to know which ones came with the indicators above the wheel arch...coz i think it looks a lot better

cowie165, RAWS and old low-volume cars? can you please explain that, coz that means sweet f a here :) sorry

i didnt need to know if it had to have them there, i wanted to know which ones came with the indicators above the wheel arch...coz i think it looks a lot better

To give you the short answer, the ones that have them (none came with afaik) are ones that are NOT imported through the 15yr old scheme.

Long answer:

The current Registered Automotive Workshop Scheme (aka compliance) is different to the way you could import and comply cars a few years back (the whole cheap backyard compliance days). I think the changeover was May 02.

Anyways, the DOTARS rules stated that they have requirements to meet before a car can be deemed roadworthy. This includes changing seatbelts, tyres, adding indicators and so on.

The 15yr scheme (to paraphrase) means cars only have to comply with requirements for the year they were produced (I think). So my 89 R32 doesn't have side indicators, yet if you imported a 1994 R32 right now then the RAWS would install indicators for you.

If you like the look, most workshops use the side indicators from VT Commodores, and you could prob wire them up yourself.

Hope this answers your q

Mark

No, all the front indicators have the buldge on them. Its less noticable on the series 2 R32 gts, as the whole lens is orange rather than clear and the buldge being orange.

My side indicators are crap circle ones. One got smashed a while ago, it still cost me $45 for a new set! Should have got clear ones instead...

I'm going through a steep learning curve about R32s too :(

As far as I am able to discern, NONE of the R32s came with side indicators on the front guards... The ones that do have them, had them installed at time of compliance when they entered Australia.

R32s brought through the 15 year old scheme rarely have these side indicators installed, as it isn't a necessity. How it isn't necessary is beyond me. Very dangerous if you ask me!

R32s brought through the 15 year old scheme rarely have these side indicators installed, as it isn't a necessity. How it isn't necessary is beyond me. Very dangerous if you ask me!

There are heaps of older cars driving around without side guard indicators. Most cars didnt have them until late 80's early 90's.

There are heaps of older cars driving around without side guard indicators. Most cars didnt have them until late 80's early 90's.

Yes, and they are also quite dangerous.

It's impossible to go back and force a retrofit recall on the hundreds of thousands of older cars already on the road without side indicators, but it would have been so easy to make it a necessary step for the 15 year rule, like it ALREADY was for the low-volume import scheme that most of our cars were brought in by.

It would make the roads that little bit safer for other drivers that have to share the asphalt with these cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...