Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

i was just wondering will a t3 turbocharger off r33 skyline bolt directly up to a r32 skyline with a silver top rb20det????

and what power could u expect to make using one of these turbo???

also what other turbo are a direct bolt up to a rb20det????

any help would b good

thanks

matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68209-upgrading-turbo-need-help/
Share on other sites

Standard series 2 RB20s can make around 250rwhp with standard turbos on 1bar. With a FMIC + Full exhaust system of course... some on here have dyno sheets to prove this (posted recently).

Im guessing with a rb25 turbo you could make anywhere up to 270-280rwhp.

What are the HKS GT2530s good for hp wise? Can anyone recommend a turbo that will suit around 320rwhp? And how much wud this cost?

quincy you need to you your dump pipe.. your loosing power big time from the factory dumpipe/front pipe :) you'll have boost come on earlier and harder

rb25 turbo is a bit laggy on rb20's so i've found out i dont get full boost(10psi) untill 4000rpm.. bump that to 14psi and i dont get full boost untill 4300 so yer.. it gives the rb20 a nice strong topend which stock turbo lacks (pulls hard right to 8000rpm)

That late??

The thing spools at like 2,500rpm on my dads r33 (full zorst, FMIC, 10psi)

Its the least laggy thing ive driven so i thought it wudnt be too bad if u put it on an rb20, well not 4,000rpm bad... i was thinkin full boost at like 3,700ishrpm (dependin on gear).

Good to know it pulls all the way to 8,000rpm not that u do that or anything :) hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...