Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I have purchased a RB25 S2 turbo that I am going to have highflowed along with a 360 Deg Thrust bearing put in. This will be going onto my RB31DET.

My question is. I know that people put the VG30 exhaust housing on the RB25 turbo for a performance increase. Would it be worthwile/feesable for me to put a VG30 exhaust housing on the 25 turbo before it is highflowed?

In my head it seems like an easy way to get just a Little more power out of it. While possibly giving it a little more punch from the 3L bottom end.

I know that this type of set up may cause surging and be a little laggy on a 2.5L but I think it should be fine on a 3L.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68341-rb25vg30-hybrid-highflow-turbo/
Share on other sites

If anything fitting the VG30 exhaust housing to the stock RB25 CHRA will decerease the chances of surge as it will shift spool to a later rpm where the engine is able to consume more air.

Give it ago. Maybe do a before and after power run just to give us all an indication how the larger a/r reacts with the 3ltr. :rofl:

I sure would be interested.

In std form the VG 30 ceramic BB turbo or its exhaust housing on the std RB25 ceramic BB turbo could work ok up to the ceramic turbines speed limit . These were fitted to a 3L VG 30 after all .

Be wary of bush bearing hybrids using the VG/RB housings , the ceramic turbine is the only one that really suits them properly . Boring the exhaust housing out butchers the nossle section and it can't work properly . Unfortunately turbos of this size need to run at high shaft speeds to move enough air , and the bush bearing and thrust plate / collar affair won't stand this for too long . Apart from the above options there are no cheap answers .

Cheers A .

Disco: - I am getting the Rb25 turbo highflowed - that means 360degree thrust bearing. new seals - steel wheels - bored out etc etc. I want to put the VG30 exhaust housing on the turbo to give it even more go again.

Abused: Most of the reasons as above. I want it to go straight onto the car with minimal fuss. I'm not interested in a stupidly big turbo that takes ages to spool. This is my daily driver. I drive it to work and back home. Some weekends me and my girlfriend go away in it. Every now and then it will be off to the drags/track. Thats about it. The fact that it looks 100% stock as well. The truth is a Std high flow puts out 450hp. Hopefully just putting this extra bit on gives 470-520 hp (hope/guess) that is more than enough with my other mods for the streets.

Thanks guys please keep the info coming

Disco: - I am getting the Rb25 turbo highflowed - that means 360degree thrust bearing. new seals - steel wheels - bored out etc etc. I want to put the VG30 exhaust housing on the turbo to give it even more go again.

Whilst i think plan bearing turbos are fine, if you have a ball bearing turbo, i dont see the sense when getting it rebuilt going to a 360deg thrust bearing setup? Other then expense of course, but there are places aroudn that do BB as well and are only a $200 more:) (approx)

Cubes: That's the hope :) a skanky little 250rwkw :rofl: (or more if possible :P)

I was recommended the 360 deg thrust bearing setup as it should make more reliable power. That's really why I am/was going with it. The other option was a 270 deg thrust bearing that would be cutting down the life of the turbo and the power.

I will ask about getting it BB set up as well.

Thanks for the advice roy.

Depends how much you can get it all for.. If you are buying from a jap wrecker you are better off getting your current turbo highflowed.

A little while back when I had the RB20t jap wreckers were asking around $700 for an RB25 turbo & $500 for a VG30DET BB turbo.

hey mate

I picked up a blowen R33 S2 turbo for $100

Have seen a few places that sell the rear housing for about $100-150

The highflow job with the 360deg thrust bearing is costing aprox $1300

After all of this I will still have my current RB25 turbo to bolt onto my mates R32. So that will bring the cost down a little

  • 3 weeks later...

doesnt seem worth it, maybe pay a little extra and get a garret 450-500hp roller??

I understand now why u wouldnt want to thow a huge turbo on it. My mates got heaps of power with a big turbo and its not as driveable as u probably want it to be!

All the best anyways!!!

Who is doing this stuff for you? The whole 270 degree vs 360 degree thrust bearing durability argument is kinda pointless if the shop that's doing it for you doesn't low-speed and high-speed balance the rotating assemblies for you, and you're going to be spinning it past its efficiency range anyways. Especially with the ceramic wheels, overspinning will lead do very premature failure. I'd say, save your money and get a real ball bearing turbo (not a single ball bearing unit with a thrust bearing), that is properly matched to the engine. You know we DO make turbos smaller than a GT40R... And it seems that for the prices you are saying, you could be coming close to just buying a new gt28R or gt25R with the t25 flange that will bolt right up anyways.

I'd say unless the shop you're doing this at is VERY reputable with turbos, you're only buying a temporary solution.

And it seems that for the prices you are saying, you could be coming close to just buying a new gt28R or gt25R with the t25 flange that will bolt right up anyways.  

I'd say unless the shop you're doing this at is VERY reputable with turbos, you're only buying a temporary solution.

Rb25 and vg30 turbo's are T3 flanged and we have pretty reputable shop's doing this sorta stuff out here eg. GCG..

  • 4 months later...

I've got both a vg30 and r34 gtt turbo that i'm measuring up.

It appears the elbow from the r34 turbo will indeed bolt up to the vg30 turbo. The RB20DET elbow definitely won't.

I am unsure of the R33 rb25det turbo's elbow.

I've also discovered as have some others, that the R34 GTT turbo has the exact same size turbine housing as the VG30DET turbo.

sThe only difference between the two is that the R34 turbo runs a slightly larger compressor BUT it does have a anti-surge ring or what ever its called located in the snout which reduces efficiency.

Stock vs stock I'm not really sure which is better.

Larger compressor with an anti-surge ring or slightly smaller compressor without the surge ring.

Could you please do me a favour and measure the r33 rb25det turbine housing as the following pic illustrates and post the results?

Even just by using a ruler with a sharp eye will be good enough. :P

For example the cross section width of the rb20det turbo is ~45mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...