Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how ya doin fellas...

i just bought a 95 R33 Gtst

The engine is pretty much stock except the turbo smat BOV,full 3.5 inch exhaust, GTR intercooler which is front mounted and HKS pod filter.

its currently running 4psi

id like to know what you guyz rekon my next upgrade steps should be ... if possible rough price estimate ...

also with my current setup how much boost yous think my engine could run comfortably ....

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68477-upgrade-guide-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

that excatly what i was going to say. YOu must have a bleed valve of some sort,restrictive mods or inaccurate gauges to have 4 psi. im curious if the car pulls hard?

With your current set up and the fact that its a 95 model as oppose to 96+ models, im sure that it can handle 10 - 12 psi tops.

But these advice have been mentioned before, do a search and you will be amazed.

the standard actuator is 5psi, so its sits just under +5 on the stock boost guage.

the stock guage is in mmhg not psi. +7 on the guage is 14psi. for next mods you should check out a piggyback computer and a boost controller or a full ecu replacement.

check out

apexi safc - fuel piggyback

hks evc - boost controller

blitz sbc - boost controller

apexi powerfc - full ecu

greddy emanage - full ecu

have a look at some of those products, theres an apexi powerfc faq under tutorials which will cover a lot of the questions youll have regarding aftermarket ecu's

personally mate, I'm on the same road as you and have the same mods.

Go get yourself a turbosmart bleed valve $100 and open it up so around 10psi (safe) or if you want that little bit more than 12psi. I don't recommend going over 12psi with standard turbo.

Now I've noticed running 10psi with FMIC and exhaust that the mixtures are quite rich and it doesn't rev out cleanly, so my next option is going to be a apexi PFC (around $1100 from nengun) only because I look to fit a bigger turbo in time.

Otherwise if your not looking to be going for bigger mods I would just get yourself a Apexi SAFC which will ONLY adjust your air/fuel mixtures and that would set you back around $450 for the unit and another $200 or so for a tune on the dyno.

Now that you have the adjustable a/f ratio you can go for things like a bigger Air flow meter and large fuel pump etc. Pumping more fuel and allowing more air into the engine as well as still being able to tune the mixtures perfectly.

So yeah thats my 2cents, but if I was you I'd definately start with a bleed valve and you will definately notice quite a bit of bang for you buck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...