Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how ya doin fellas...

i just bought a 95 R33 Gtst

The engine is pretty much stock except the turbo smat BOV,full 3.5 inch exhaust, GTR intercooler which is front mounted and HKS pod filter.

its currently running 4psi

id like to know what you guyz rekon my next upgrade steps should be ... if possible rough price estimate ...

also with my current setup how much boost yous think my engine could run comfortably ....

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68477-upgrade-guide-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

that excatly what i was going to say. YOu must have a bleed valve of some sort,restrictive mods or inaccurate gauges to have 4 psi. im curious if the car pulls hard?

With your current set up and the fact that its a 95 model as oppose to 96+ models, im sure that it can handle 10 - 12 psi tops.

But these advice have been mentioned before, do a search and you will be amazed.

the standard actuator is 5psi, so its sits just under +5 on the stock boost guage.

the stock guage is in mmhg not psi. +7 on the guage is 14psi. for next mods you should check out a piggyback computer and a boost controller or a full ecu replacement.

check out

apexi safc - fuel piggyback

hks evc - boost controller

blitz sbc - boost controller

apexi powerfc - full ecu

greddy emanage - full ecu

have a look at some of those products, theres an apexi powerfc faq under tutorials which will cover a lot of the questions youll have regarding aftermarket ecu's

personally mate, I'm on the same road as you and have the same mods.

Go get yourself a turbosmart bleed valve $100 and open it up so around 10psi (safe) or if you want that little bit more than 12psi. I don't recommend going over 12psi with standard turbo.

Now I've noticed running 10psi with FMIC and exhaust that the mixtures are quite rich and it doesn't rev out cleanly, so my next option is going to be a apexi PFC (around $1100 from nengun) only because I look to fit a bigger turbo in time.

Otherwise if your not looking to be going for bigger mods I would just get yourself a Apexi SAFC which will ONLY adjust your air/fuel mixtures and that would set you back around $450 for the unit and another $200 or so for a tune on the dyno.

Now that you have the adjustable a/f ratio you can go for things like a bigger Air flow meter and large fuel pump etc. Pumping more fuel and allowing more air into the engine as well as still being able to tune the mixtures perfectly.

So yeah thats my 2cents, but if I was you I'd definately start with a bleed valve and you will definately notice quite a bit of bang for you buck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...