Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 RB25DET conversion

J.B.E

By J.B.E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

Posted
Posted

Hi, has anyone personnally installed a RB25DET motor into an R32 RB20DET skyline before. If you have can you plz tell me if i'm likely to run into any problems with anything eg: fitment wiring

My car is a R32GTS-t I have a full RB25DET motor, wiring loom, computer, turbo, airflow meter and gearbox although turbo is being trashed as i have a bigger unit along with a few other bits and pieces that will all be sorted once I have the motor installed.

Any help would be cool thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68561-r32-rb25det-conversion/
Share on other sites
Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
Posted

The biggest drama is the wiring.

With my conversion, because the R33 has the battery in the boot (and the R32 has it in the engine bay) the two looms had to be wired into each other - not an easy job.

Everything else in the conversion went really well, the engine dropped straight in and bolted up to my R32 gearbox.

I've got a R34 GTt side mount intercooler fitted, which was a struggle to fit in the standard location, but (because you are changing turbo's) I imagine you will be fitting a front mount anyway.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

It's not particularly difficult if using an rb20 gearbox as it saves with custom tail shafts.

The wiring is the hard part as Ryno has stated though i didn't have the same problem as him.

To avoid it you can keep the RB20 body loom (for lack of a better term) and strip the knock sensor and air regulator out of the equivalent r33 section of loom and use that bit only. Also, under dash plugs on the r33 engine loom need to be changed to match the r32 under dash plugs and the big rectangular plug up near the airflow meter needs to be swapped to the r32 plug. All this requires a heap of tracing but isn't particularly difficult if you take your time.

You also need to wire in a couple of r32 plugs into the r33 loom for the fuel pump speed control dropping resistor and the climate control temp sensor that sits on top of the heater hoses if you have a late model r32.

I also wired in a relay to activate the secondary aac valve when the air con kicks in.

Thats the basics of it. Doing it all takes a bit longer.

Good luck.

J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cool thanks for the help guys. I may now have the wiring sorted (hopefully) as a guy from a performance shop in NZ is doing the same conversion now and has made some sort of plugin loom conversion and may sell me 1 if all goes well with his new little invention.

I'm goin to be using the RB25DET gearbox as I've got it already and it's stonger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...