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hey my 89 r32 gtst keeps cutting out... it will start and then drive for a while but then it will cut out like the accelerator isnt working... its like im not pressing it but i keep pushing and it wont do anything or it will cut back in and start working

i have no idea what it is

but i know for that the fuel pump is working as it has been tested

anyone who has had similar problems or any idea what it might be please reply asap

thanks

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have u tried the air flow meter

the AFM always screw up

i have a 89 gtst and my car would randomly run like shite. it would drive smoothly then all of a sudden, while my foot was on the accelerator, it would seem as if i had taken my foot off and then kick back in. it would jerk back and forth until i took my foot off the accelerator. sometimes i would pull over to the side of the ride and it would idle really high around 2000rpms then act as if nothing had happened

i purchased a 2nd hand air flow meter for $70 and it did the job

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thanks for the reply guys....

afm has been previuosly checked and was fine

I'm guessing retainer bolt is to make sure the ECU is sitting ok and wired right?? It's been relocated to glovebox.

cos my ecu is in the glovebox has a piggyback ECU attached

i put the car into consult mode and ecu flashed code 43 which is for TPS. Any suggestions as to what is causing this?

AHHHHHHHH

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I had the problem were the plug came lose on the ECU and every time I hit a bump the engine cut out. The retainer bolt on the ecu plug was loose. I do not know if this is what is going on with yours. It does sound electrical it could be anything on the inigtion side. Do you have an after market alarm or checked through the wiring harness for any damage.?

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the tps may be an intermittent problem, so although your mechanic says it is fine, and it probably was when he saw it, at other times is may not be working and it might be causing your problem,

i know my tps acts that way, sometimes it will be fine, and then all of a sudden while driving the tps voltage will drop to 0.01-0.09v (normally minimum .38, i can see the voltage on the pfc hc) and the car will turn off if i back off.

so try and change the tps, since you know the ecu is picking up a problem with it.

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what you just described is exactly what my r32 did once, mine was the airflow meter. had two different auto electricians look at it and the first said the afm was fine and couldnt find the problem but the second found the problem. maybe see if someone has a spare afm you can borrow to see how it drives then?

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I had a similiar issue.

It turned out to be the wire going to the afm had a faulty connection.

I installed an SAFC previously and then removed it. The Plug that I used to connect the AFM wire together (as per the SAFC manual) was causing a dodgy connection.

I removed it, soldered the wire back together and its 100%.

I discovered the problem when I hooked up a powerfc. The AFM signal was completely dropping out.

I don't believe its the TPS.

How was the AFM checked out? I don't believe it was checked properly.

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As joel said... common problem there. With wiring.

It causes many problems, and also causes the ECU to give out false information

does the car totally die?

If it doesnt totally die, id say against the CAS... if it was dying and then wouldnt start for around 10mins... then thats tell-tale of a stuffed CAS.

Get someone elses AFM if you can.

and work back along wirs

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hey yea im going to change the tps  

quick question is the r33 tps the same as the r32 tps

talking both manual gtsts ?

also had a quick look today  

is it hard to take off ?

easy to take off on r33s anyway, im sure it would be easy on r32s as well. i dont know if they are the same, best to call nissan they could probably tell you what other models use the same tps. try swapping with a friend first to make sure that it is really the problem, because it could be something else, or maybe just contributing to a larger problem

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well what happens ill be driving normally then suddenly its like it just cuts out ...the engine is still runiing and car is still on ... so it hasnt stalled but the revs drop slowly the fuel pump cant b heard

although when i floor the accelrator i notice that even though i am not getting and power or the revs are rasing the boost controller still shows the changing vacuum but never builds boost obviuosly

it eventually slows really fast then dies and then starting it takes a few times but usually repeats

ill have to check the afm wiring then (hada look at the ecu harness but didnt follow wiring will do that though)

but yea my bro has a r33 so ill change tps (just as a test ) try drive closeby then go over afm wiring

once again thanks for all the input guys

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went to check the wiring on the tps one last time andd

drum roll

the red wire comes out of the back of the harness

took apart the harness and soldered it together

boom its all good...

but dodgy soldering so im just gonna wait for a cheap tps and buy it

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  • 2 weeks later...
went to check the wiring on the tps one last time andd

drum roll

the red wire comes out of the back of the harness

took apart the harness and soldered it together  

boom its all good...  

but dodgy soldering so im just gonna wait for a cheap tps and buy it

:wassup: for all the non believers

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hahaha funnily enough even after that a day later it happened again

bought some contact cleaner from jaycar and cleaned afm it was covered in oil from air filter and its workin

so it looks like it was a combination

but ive got a new afm (thanks cubes) and am getting a new air filter etc.. .non oiled

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