Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Maybe once this mystery is solved we can research the meaning behind Toyota and Mitsubishi's engines, anyone hazzard a guess at what 1JZGTE or 4G63 stand for? :)

Have a look here for toyota ones http://www.toymods.org.au/tech.html

RB = Rough Bastard ?????

RB = Rude Bitch/Bastard ?????

& just for you Messiah, doesn't pH stand for percent Hydrogen ?????

how can a scale that starts at 1 and goes to 14 be a percentage? :(

Nah just to clarify pH, when a fluid is "ionized" it breaks off into negative and positive Ions. Water produces roughly equal ammounts of neg/pos ions and hence is neutral. Things like HCL (Hydrochloric acid) give out more positive ions than negative.... or was that the other way around.... but due to this its an acid

but u get the drift.

I find it comical that there are several sites that endulge in the whole Race Breed thing.  

All I can say is RB20E.... & the diesel RB28.... NOT what I'd call race breed personally.

.

dont forget the good old rb30e! :)

Racooo Breeedoooo!!11!

rd28.jpg

68kW/170Nm of track-tearing performance fitted to the equally apex-hugging NQ Patrol.

Although, admittedly this is actually an RD28 due to it being diesel rather than petty powered... :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...