Jump to content
SAU Community

just to clear up a few things!!!


Recommended Posts

Hi Paul,

Just to clear up a few things!!

Why was the car taken to two different workshop's to have basic mechanical and electrical items fitted over the obvious extensive experence at DIRT in the first place ?

Howed you work out the 50hp loss from the first workshops work with the cam gears ? was it power ran before and after on site ? did the torque curve improve at all as a result of this loss?

And do you have any further info about these workshops as it could be handy as i use a workshop in newcastle for my R32GTR ?

Are you using HKS exhaust manifolds ? if so did you buy them new and if you did buy the new have you "touched" them up with a die grinder at all, did you have them coated if so what with ?

Are you using HKS exhaust manifolds ? if so did you buy them new and if you did buy the new have you "touched" them up with a die grinder at all, did you have them coated if so what with ?

The HKS manifolds come blended, about the only thing you might need to grind is port matching... but they are already generously sized, similar to the exhaust gaskets. But please sir no more talk of touching as Micheal Jackson is lurking in the thread somewhere.

Guest two.06l
Hi Paul,

Just to clear up a few things!!

Why was the car taken to two different workshop's to have basic mechanical and electrical items fitted over the obvious extensive experence at DIRT in the first place ?

Howed you work out the 50hp loss from the first workshops work with the cam gears ? was it power ran before and after on site ? did the torque curve improve at all as a result of this loss?

And do you have any further info about these workshops as it could be handy as i use a workshop in newcastle for my R32GTR ?

Are you using HKS exhaust manifolds ? if so did you buy them new and if you did buy the new have you "touched" them up with a die grinder at all, did you have them coated if so what with ?

The cam gears were bought there and fitting was offered at a good price ( why bother with such a basic mechanical installation when you can pay little money for someone else to get their hands dirty).....the AVC-R was fitted by myself and the other workshop was doing the tuning.

Before and after dyno runs were carried out and ill post them here for all to see.

HKS manifolds were port-matched when i assembled the engine.

Guest two.06l
The cam gears were bought there and fitting was offered at a good price ( why bother with such a basic mechanical installation when you can pay little money for someone else to get their hands dirty).....the AVC-R was fitted by myself and the other workshop was doing the tuning.

 Before and after dyno runs were carried out and ill post them here for all to see.

HKS manifolds were port-matched when i assembled the engine.

cam_gear_comparison.JPG

the blue line is std cam timing

the green line is "MR GTR's" setting

the red line is our setting

pls ignore the overlapping runs (red over pink)...3rd gear

I know which car i'd rather drive....

Hi Paul,

Thanks for posting the dyno sheet.

Just looking at the sheet, the only real difference i can see between the two power runs is that the one that makes more power (blue line) is a dyno queens power curve as the "MR GTR's" (green line) has a far more linear power delivery which would to me represent a more "real world" performance gain.

I know which car i'd rather drive....

Just a couple more things!

i wonder what is your definition of "built by myself"?

Did you personally port, polish, surface grind and seat the valves on the head which is being used on the current engine? And did "you" balance the crank ?

Guest two.06l
Hi Paul,

Thanks for posting the dyno sheet.

Just looking at the sheet, the only real difference i can see between the two power runs is that the one that makes more power (blue line) is a dyno queens power curve as the "MR GTR's" (green line) has a far more linear power delivery which would to me represent a more "real world" performance gain.

I know which car i'd rather drive....

Just a couple more things!

i wonder what is your definition of "built by myself"?

Did you personally port, polish, surface grind and seat the valves on the head which is being used on the current engine? And did "you" balance the crank ?

the blue line is standard cam timing you wanker!

did you bother to look at the torque curve???

if you think that the green line is more linear than the red line(my setting) you are more stupid than i first gave you credit for!

Ha ha ha ha :rofl:

Yes Paul it is true that i can not read dyno sheets ! Credit to your (red line) power curve.

Another thing i can't understand is why you don't answer all my questions ?

So here's 3 more for ya,

1. Did you buy the exhuast manifolds that are on your car and 2530's from that workshop that fitted your cam gears ?

2. Is the SDT on the dyno sheet an abbreviation of the name of the workshop ?

3. Is it the same workshop that fitted the gears ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...