Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys,

Came up with an idea that I have tested and works.

For all you people who have externally vented BOV it will stop your over fuelling and stalling.

What I did was run both the stock and an aftermarket BOV. I found that the aftermarket BOV was not venting as the stock valve was letting all of the air out before it reached the aftermarket one.

To alleviate this problem I placed a thin metal plate of the mounting for the original BOV (whre gasket is), then I drilled a drilled holes in the plate so it would limit the air going through the stock valve. This inturn let the stock valve vent under low boost back to the intake to stop the engine over fuelling. But when you hit full boost the aftermarket blows out a majority of the whilst the stock valve only lets out a small amount of pressure.

And if you call now, you will receive 2 packets of 2 minute noodles free!!!!!!

Thought this would help.

Doc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/690-bov-overfuelling-problem-fixed/
Share on other sites

Ya!! you champ man!!

good job, can't wait to try it on, by the way where you get the thin metal to place in the gasket place? and how big you drill the hole? 1/8" or ?

thanks!

BTW, where is my noodles? ;)

Originally posted by Doctor

G'day guys,  

Came up with an idea that I have tested and works.  

For all you people who have externally vented BOV it will stop your over fuelling and stalling.  

What I did was run both the stock and an aftermarket BOV. I found that the aftermarket BOV was not venting as the stock valve was letting all of the air out before it reached the aftermarket one.  

To alleviate this problem I placed a thin metal plate of the mounting for the original BOV (whre gasket is), then I drilled a drilled holes in the plate so it would limit the air going through the stock valve. This inturn let the stock valve vent under low boost back to the intake to stop the engine over fuelling. But when you hit full boost the aftermarket blows out a majority of the whilst the stock valve only lets out a small amount of pressure.  

And if you call now, you will receive 2 packets of 2 minute noodles free!!!!!!  

Thought this would help.  

Doc

I pulled the peice of aluminium of a old camera that I was going to throw out. I drilled a hole with a size 12 dowel drill bit.

I am thinking of even going to a size 10 to see how it goes. Go samll and make the hole larger for your needs.

Doc

Guest DAZSPC

Just curious, but say you still have the stock BOV fitted and want to 'upgrade' Would it not be a good idea to shop around for a Hybrid kind BOV that vents both to Atmo and internally? You may not get as loud a "Pssssht" sound I suppose, but wouldn't that contribute to eliminating the mixture issue?

Also, would a SAFC correct the issue if you had a pure atmo BOV?

Originally posted by DAZSPC

Just curious, but say you still have the stock BOV fitted and want to 'upgrade' Would it not be a good idea to shop around for a Hybrid kind BOV that vents both to Atmo and internally?  You may not get as loud a "Pssssht" sound I suppose, but wouldn't that contribute to eliminating the mixture issue?

Also, would a SAFC correct the issue if you had a pure atmo BOV?

yes, an aftermarket computer will fix the iddle problem; such as S-AFC (even the early model AFC will do the job), Power FC. or you even can spend some money on iddle stablizer (not expensive though..), depands which way you want to go consider the $$ issue.

yes, you can get the hybrid of BOV, but chance is you don't like the sound, i.e. I like the sound comes from Blitz BOV, so I will try to have it installed and try to have stable iddle. btw, don't you know the blitz BOV will increasing 10rwkw? just j/k :mad:

This is basically for a mod for people who have externally vented BOV and have the shits all the time with bad idle, stalling, flame throwing etc. If you have a aftermarket plumbback no need the do this.

Beleive me, this works or not if you like stalling:D

Doc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...