Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was actualy looking at goin 600cc nismo injectors.. wolf3d (**** that afm off) and yer mods to go along with it

You need a job first warick, removing the AFM isn't always the case!

P.S who's tuning it up here!

i was actualy looking at goin 600cc nismo injectors.. wolf3d (**** that afm off) and yer mods to go along with it

Had a wolf before I got the power fc, wouldn't recommend it, as it was send really high coil charge time causing car to misfire constantly at high boost and fry most of the coils that why I got spitfires, also idle and cold start where really bad compared to power fc's but if you have really good tuner might be alright.

nat maybe mind your own business and no ones tuning it up here.. wouldnt let anyone up here touch it no matter wat computer i put in the car ofcourse a trip to bris will be in order by the time i get everything in so yer..

i just have a thing.. i dont like afms :) they can fail... they need cleaning blah blah blah

job meh..

*edit* and if your goin to type my name instead of just waz or wazz or watever.. ITS WARRICK not warick or warwick

blah

I've heard stock injectors are alright under 250 rwkw and 1 bar should be under that without cam and coils. You'd also need a Z32 air flow for more boost anyway, also might be worth looking into 2nd gtr injectors as my 555cc injectors max duty are only about 70%.

Sweet cheers. I have to buy a new turbo anyway, but can't afford to do the clutch, AFM, PFC, injectors and pump, FMIC and GT-RS all in one shot.

Does it sound silly if I get what I can afford (basically everything but the AFM, injectors and pump) and use an R33 actuator on the GT-RS to keep boost right down just to get the car on the road, even though it won't be all that special until I can afford the fuel etc upgrades? As it is at the moment I don't have a running car (other one was written off) so the fact it won't be running anywhere near potential won't bother me.

Reedy - thats because of the actuator that HKS supply with it. As I said before, I I'd like to run an R33 one on it - which is sprung to around 7psi. That way, in theory - the minimum I'd be able to run would now be 7-8psi :P

my understanding of the stock r33 turbo system is the spring is 5psi and the dual stage boost solenoid it uses opens the boost level to 7psi after 4500rpm. is this not the case? my r33 came like this and many others have too and theres an easy way to bypass that as well. with my hks evc turned off im stuck at the spring level which is 5psi

correct me if im wrong i just thought that was how it worked

The least I ever managed to get mine to was 7psi (the R33 electronic boost solenoid raised it to just under 9psi at 4500rpm). Not 100% relevant anyway, I want to know if it'd be safe like this :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...