Jump to content
SAU Community

z32 afm and SAFC 2

sky

By sky,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

sky Apprentice

sky

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yep it will work, but if you have enough power to really need a Z32 afm I wouldn't be tuning my car with an SAFC.  Too many compromises:cheers:

Just bought a GT2540 but thinking that the stock AFM will not support the turbo. Besides i have a mines ECU currently making good power with stock turbo. Didnt want to go for the power fc as yet as i have got SAFC 2 from my friend. any recommendation?thanks.. :)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Just bought a GT2540 but thinking that the stock AFM will not support the turbo. Besides i have a mines ECU currently making good power with stock turbo. Didnt want to go for the power fc as yet as i have got SAFC 2 from my friend. any recommendation?thanks..  :)

Recommendation #1= Sell Mines ECU and SAFC and buy Power FC, Z32 AFM, fuel pump and injectors. Why = because the 2540 will exceed the standard fuel supply capability. Plus exceeed the SAFC's ability to balance the A/F ratios and the ignition timing.

Recommendation #2 = Buy a Nismo adg fuel pressure regulator, and a GTR fuel pump and use the Mines ECU and the SAFC to get a pretty close tune. Depending on the quality of the tune, you may not be able to use the full capability of the 2540 ie run lower boost. It's a compromise, but cheap.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

sky Apprentice

sky

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Recommendation #1= Sell Mines ECU and SAFC and buy Power FC, Z32 AFM, fuel pump and injectors.  Why = because the 2540 will exceed the standard fuel supply capability.  Plus exceeed the SAFC's ability to balance the A/F ratios and the ignition timing.

Recommendation #2 = Buy a Nismo adg fuel pressure regulator, and a GTR fuel pump and use the Mines ECU and the SAFC to get a pretty close tune.  Depending on the quality of the tune, you may not be able to use the full capability of the 2540 ie run lower boost.  It's a compromise, but cheap.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Thanks SK! Seems like option 2 would be be the way to go for now. I have already got the nismo adj reg, nismo fuel pump, 3" exh, FMIC, cam gear, filter etc. i will give this a go and see how it go before going with the power FC. Can a stock r33 AFM still be in use if only boosting it to say 1-1.1bar? thanks... :(

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Can a stock r33 AFM still be in use if only boosting it to say 1-1.1bar?  thanks...  :P

Boost is irrelevant, it is excessive airflow that can not be metered by the AFM that causes problems. You might get to 33 lbs of airflow per minute (~215 rwkw) before it becomes an issue. But it really depends on how much the tuning is compromised by the lack of ignition timing adjustability. :cheers:

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted

With the standard turbo it is ok, but as soon as we put the 2530 on and started putting some boost into it, the standard ECU didnt respond well. As it says, depends how good your ECU is going to cope with it. But after updating to the power FC we picked up like 50rwkw in the midrange running the same boost and boy you can feel it.

sky Apprentice

sky

Posted
  • Author
Posted
With the standard turbo it is ok, but as soon as we put the 2530 on and started putting some boost into it, the standard ECU didnt respond well.  As it says, depends how good your ECU is going to cope with it.   But after updating to the power FC we picked up like 50rwkw in the midrange running the same boost and boy you can feel it.

hmmm... sounds tasty! :D .. however, the mines ecu is more aggressive then the stock ecu. therefore i will use it with the safc and z32 afm for time being untill i robbed the next bank! :flamed: thanks guys!!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

hehe I'll have to add to this. :D

My understanding is the SAFC when setup as Z32 in and RB out, does just that.

Z32 in, tells the SAFC that it is receiving a Z32 AFM calibrated airflow to voltage signal, RB out, tells the SAFC to adjust the voltage to match that of the RB AFM's airflow to voltage signal. This way the ECU thinks it is running the stock AFM. Theoretically the AFR's should stay exactly the same.

The reason for this is exactly what it states in the manual. For SR's running their power robbing ~40-45mm afm.

Placing a restrictor in front of the turbo reduces its efficiency.

The idea is to run the larger RB/Z32 80mm AFM to reduce the restriction and increase the turbos efficiency.

BUT to do this we need to be able to manipulate the voltage so the ECU sees the voltage/airflow as if it were still running the stock AFM.

This is why it makes sweet **** all difference to the RB's when running a Z32 with Z32 in RB out.

Select Z32 in & Z32 out and it will or should leave the signal untouched.

A few issues I can see with this is that for a given airflow the ecu will be thinking that it is receiving less airflow/load than it really is.

This may not be a problem with fuel as we can richen it up via the SAFC, the problem I can see occuring is the ignition load points.

In the ignition map, less load = more ignition timing.

This is not good for an RB25DET running lots of boost with its 9:1 comp ratio.

In practice it may not really be an issue at WOT but 'MAY' be an issue at part throttle while making decent boost or climbing a big arsed long hill in a low gear.

Unsure. No one has really posted their findings in depth.

Some times I think a majority of the tuners don't really know what is going on, well either that or they just don't care to communicate it to the customer. ;)

SK, it appears logical. or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...