Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi team,

Well i already have a system in my Soarer, but the time has come for more bass, so i have bought myself a 1000W mono block amp just for my 15" Sub. I want to clean up my system a lil by getting some stuff properly mounted etc. I also wanna get a new face plate made up to accomidate my headset and my boost gauge below it.

Does anybody have a good hook up in Brisbane who does this kinda work? I have been to one group but they quoted me 600+ which is WAAY more than i wanna spend.

I wanna get it done asap... so let me know

Cheers

haro

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69484-stereo-installs-in-brisbane-help/
Share on other sites

Try giving Steve Calverly a call on 0411 873 055.

He has his own business (mobile) and comes to you.

Had him do a stereo install, alarm and blue tooth car phone to my GTR.

Nice guy. Let him know Peter with the black GTR refered you.

Don't know what he will charge, but its worth asking.

I second Chris Rogers. Have used him on both my cars and waiting for him to do my alarm and stereo install in the 34. He's a mod on performance forums too. Trustworthy and honest guy and does quality work. He's mobile...so he can come to you. Tell him Jonathan recommended you and he'll look after you.

Chris Rogers did the alarm install on my VL, which had a few dramas. Although they could be classed as his fault, many factors worked against him (time, people rushing him to move out of the area he was working in, my car being a piece of shit) and he came to me three times without complaint to make sure it was all working 100%, which it now is. So I'll use him again. I mean how many places come to you to sort the shit out? The last 2 times I wasnt even with the car, I just hid the keys and told him where to find it. I made it like an easter egg hunt, with a series of cryptic clues, each more cryptic than the last...

He does the City Cat alarm installs (sat tracking and all, though why the hell you'd bother when the damn things are stuck on the river and cant go into open sea or they blow up.. how hard are they gonna be to find?) and installs for plenty of car parts shops and car dealerships.

word.

Hi Team,

Thanks for the replys, i have sent Chris an email with brief run down on what i require, i will keep you all posted.

But if anybody else has some good hook ups... im listening.

**** P.S is anybody else having problems posting pictures?? I cant seem to do it, the button doesnt work, when i figure it out, ill post some pics of the Soarer.

****** OH and Krawler... Avitar... SALAD FINGERS ! ! hahah, GOLD MATERIAL !

".... im here to enquire about the rrruuusty ssspooons..."

For those NOT familliar with Salad FIngers.. Episode ONE... *there is 5*

http://www.fat-pie.com/salad.htm

hehehehhe

****** OH and Krawler... Avitar... SALAD FINGERS ! !  hahah,   GOLD MATERIAL !

            ".... im here to enquire about the rrruuusty ssspooons..."

For those NOT familliar with Salad FIngers.. Episode ONE... *there is 5*

http://www.fat-pie.com/salad.htm

hehehehhe

I made the avatar from screen caps from episode 2 ;)

Lots of people have stolen it now, teh suckz0rs.

Have you seen some of david firths other work? Postman is very disturbing.... Salad Fingers is in a class of its own though :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...