Jump to content
SAU Community

180k old Diff, Heavy or Lightweight ShockProof

Roy

By Roy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Ok, so have been using Castrol oil in my diff and at the moment have Fuchs in my gearbox...but want to change both of them on Saturday for a day at Sandown on Sunday.

General consensus is use the Lightweight ShockProof in the gearbox, which is cool.

But what do i use in an original 180,000km gearbox, that sees up to 8 laps (20 mins) of track work?

Quote:

Lighweight Shockproof

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in two-stroke and four-stroke motocross transmissions (often mixed in equal parts with SuperLight ShockProof™ Gear Oil).

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

And for Heavy Shockproof...

A unique lubricant containing a suspension of solid microscopic particles as an extreme pressure agent--unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities. Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade, while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90.

Now my car/diff is a long way from heavily loaded racing differential, but the Lightweight stuff says it doesnt like high temps, and im guessing the diff gets pretty hot...i dunno, i got no idea.

Can someone in a similar position just tell me what they are using:)

...and one last thing, anyone tried the Redline water wetter?

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Ok, so have been using Castrol oil in my diff and at the moment have Fuchs in my gearbox...but want to change both of them on Saturday for a day at Sandown on Sunday.

General consensus is use the Lightweight ShockProof in the gearbox, which is cool.

But what do i use in an original 180,000km gearbox, that sees up to 8 laps (20 mins) of track work?

Quote:

Lighweight Shockproof

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in two-stroke and four-stroke motocross transmissions (often mixed in equal parts with SuperLight ShockProof™ Gear Oil).  

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.  

And for Heavy Shockproof...

A unique lubricant containing a suspension of solid microscopic particles as an extreme pressure agent--unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities. Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade, while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90.

Now my car/diff is a long way from heavily loaded racing differential, but the Lightweight stuff says it doesnt like high temps, and im guessing the diff gets pretty hot...i dunno, i got no idea.

Can someone in a similar position  just tell me what they are using:)

Roy only ran lightweight shockproof in our GTR once and after 5 laps of eastern creek BANG there goes third.... NOT RECOMMENDED FOR MOST SYNCHRO TYPE TRANSMISSIONS. I wont use it again. Also the heavyweight locks the rear diff when cold so you get the vibration when cornering like a mech 2-way(only when cold)

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh that most synchro boxes statement concerned me...but so many people rave about the stuff? As for vibration when cold, i can live with that as long as it does its thing when hot at the track.

So what gearbox oil then, Heavy shockproof or just go back to the Castrol / Fuchs that i have used in the past?

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Yeh that most synchro boxes statement concerned me...but so many people rave about the stuff? As for vibration when cold, i can live with that as long as it does its thing when hot at the track.

So what gearbox oil then, Heavy shockproof or just go back to the Castrol / Fuchs that i have used in the past?

you know the ol' saying..."when your onto a good thing, stick to it"

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok , well forget ths idea of running the Redline ShockProof oils. It could be very good stuff, but I haven’t been able to confirm that it does the job during repeated 20min squirts around a track.

So ended up going for:

- Castrol SAF-XA, 80w-140 for the differential

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...XA_B1769_04.doc

- Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 for the gearbox

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...90_B1278983.pdf

Will see how it goes over the next few weeks.

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

I put shockproof heavy in my gearbox.

It lost 3rd about 1000km after (sedate street driving) and 4th about 1100km later.

I drove it around for a few days 1st>2nd>5th.. once day 3rd and 4th came back as if nothing had ever happened, I shifted into 3rd and it got stuck.

That was 3-4weeks ago and the thing is still stuck in 3rd :D

I can't say it was the shockproof because I'm sure the box was thrashed like a .2c hooker, it could also be my clutch (highly suspect)... but when I get it all fixed I'll be putting the normal redline gearbox oil into it (vmx or something).

I'll put the heavy in my mech diff I think that's what most people do.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Where did u get the info from your first post, Roy?

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...ID=20&prodID=61

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...=61&subcatID=20

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...=61&subcatID=20

If you have been using it and there havent been any problems, then i doubt there is cause for alarm. But its a bit of a i havent used it, and the people that have posted about it havent used it on the track. I think Duncan used it in his R33 GTST, but im not sure:confused:

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

Admitedly last time I went to sandown I had a bit of a clunk selecting 5th down the front straight... will just be gentle and double clutch it :P

BUT, I'm not out there to set the quickest lap time ever... I don't flat shift and generally double clutch it to save the gearbox... plus what does it save me? Maybe 2 secs around the whole track - i can live with 2 secs slower lap, I can't live without a gearbox!

PS will buzz u in the morning

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well huge thumbsup for the Castrol SAF-XA, 80w-140 (differential) and Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 for the gearbox:)

Only did about 100kms on the fluid before going to Sandown today...the diff flet great and the g'box slotted thru the gears much better...on the way home tonight with yet more kms on it the lash and harmonic from the g/box diff is all but gone...drives a lot better...so would recommend the Syntrac highly. AT $32 per Litre im glad it works well otherwise i would have felt dudded:)

Will see how it goes over the next 10,000kms behing a 180,000km old RB20 gearbox and diff punching out 235rwkwsm at the drags and club sprints ...fingers crossed it proves pretty durable with a bit of TLC:)

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the info Roy I've mental noted that and maybe when I run out of the redline oils I bought a bunch of when I got my cef I might try it.

I thought you were selling your car? Good on ya for staying with us a while longer :rofl:

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh sure the car is for sale, whether it sells or not is a different matter. It doesnt have a leather interior, it doesn have a big stereo, isnt mega low, and doesnt have chrome wheels and doesnt have a bodykit...so not many interested parties:(

If it doesnt sell then it can have a few months R & R in a garage:)

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

No worries - if it needs someone to run her I'll run her for you :)

My cef is still stuck in 3rd so wouldn't mind a nice sounding car you can actually turn on and walk away from without having to sit in it and keep the clutch pedal in :)

or... will you be re-upholstering it and putting full sick chromies on her ? :barf:

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just another update. Fresh Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 went in before the Dutton Rally, and the gearbox is still alive. So i will gladly vouch for the Castrol gearbox oil...its helping my poor old gearbox last behind a 230-250rwkw RB20 running semi slicks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...