Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommend a company that's not North of the CBD to spray and fit my bodykit.


Recommended Posts

I am looking for a comapny with experience fitting fibreglass bodykits, but I'm not looking at spending thousands of dollars (ie. $840.00 to paint and fit a pair of side skirts) at one of the big name crash repairers.

I have a front bar, side skirts, rear bar, side mirrors and bonnet to paint and fit. Everything is currently fitted to my car, however the side skirts and rear bar require some work. Depending on price, I can paint and fit the bonnet and front bar myself. The car was originally two tone, so I also need to have the doors sprayed (as there is a dark grey strip across the bottom of each door).

So, please recommend any places you have been happy with. List what you have had done, how much it set you back and how happy you were with the result.

Oh, and if the place is looking for some publicity, I am willing to wear stickers on my car for a few months (including at Autosalon) in exchange for a good price.

I am also the MD of a web development company, so if you know of any crash repairers who are in the market for a web-site, then chances are we can come to some sort of agreement...

MC doyles at edwardstown has a very good rep, price might be a bit high tho.

Ive had good experience with marion crash on marion road, although they couldnt keep with there dead line but the quality of work was excellent

Ive also used a place called Greg Nelson crash on brighton road, much cheaper then the above mentioned and still pretty good, u get what u pay for, for the most part, but probably best value for money by far.

cheers

Prestige Motor Body Repairs at 226A Bridge Rd, Pooraka 8260 2724 painted and fitted my kit. Reasonable prices and ok quality - not absolutely fantastic but pretty good. I don't know the price as it was a part insurance job with other things too. I think he quoted around $700 to paint, with fitting only a bit extra.

To ALL,

I will back Wally at Sillens special vehicles as has 4dr sleeper,NO ONE takes more care to fit a kit than Wally be it one of his own or supplied.

Regards,

SKYLINE(Kym).... :wassup:

Provident crash repairs is the place to go

check the result

the front bar was done by somewhere else

the guard was done by Provident - $400!!!!

DSC00711.jpg

can u tell it's been fix? :rofl:

not only perfect job, Paul give me a whole car touch up for FREE plus a few more things, top broke!

  • 3 weeks later...

hi man my boss ownes a

crash shop at lonsdale relly really good work.

his bro workes thier head painter been doing it since he was like 16 now is like 35 or something.

they also do air bag suspension.

their name is b ans c reiche crash and custom

number is 83819294

hope this might help you

Iam in a similar situation, but I sourced a type m front bar for my r33. It has a bit of damage though, and needs to be repaired.

I have been quoted around 200 to paint and fit plus some more money to repair as it has to be sent off to another place to be fixed.

So lets say around 300 all up. Do you think this price is resonable?

Didnt want to hijack your thread or anything, but it was relating to painting panels.

=p

Anyone want to buy a R33 series 1 front bar? lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
    • You have to continuously fill it to avoid dry running. Personally the transmissions I've serviced have never been bad enough to justify doing this because it is definitely a pretty complicated and somewhat risky procedure compared to simply draining the pan, measuring what came out, then refilling with the exact same amount.
×
×
  • Create New...