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the dyno was dyno dynamics in shoot out mode at electronic automotive epping victoria. the .63 a/r exhaust to me is spot on , i get full boost by 3500rpm. this to me wouldnt want to be any laggier but i guess each to there own hey? it definately feels laggier than the gcg turbo and i would honestly say that for the street its about as laggy as youd want to go! the car easily spins 1st 2nd and 3rd gear now when accelerating through the gears , changing gears at 6000rpm plus its an absolute rocket!! i love it.

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See, mine with the .82 rear housing starts making boost around 3-3.5k...

I have around 16psi running by 4000-4200rpm and the joy is i have not one iota of traction problems.

The power comes on so smooth and it holds 7850 redline without hesitation.

I've still got 3500rpm worth of power above 230rwkw where it climbs evenly

Not a sniff of wheelspin at all. Personally, with 250rwkw+ i'd want as much traction as i can get... unless your a drifter :rofl:

And that comes with the turbo coming a little later.

I think INASNT has little issues too and his car, being a different model only, is essentially the same as mine.

i wouldnt mind seeing your car, im not far from you if your in epping.

Just too see if the .63 is a savage as i thought it might be on an RB25. It might not be either :P

And that comes with the turbo coming a little later.

If you tune your boost curve you can have both, with the smaller exhaust housing. But with the larger exhaust housing, you don't have this option. I would ALWAYS recommend using the smallest exhaust housing that suites your power target. That way you choose the boost curve, not the turbine.:rofl:

the car easily spins 1st 2nd and 3rd gear now when accelerating through the gears , changing gears at 6000rpm plus its an absolute rocket!! i love it.

So hyundia excels can pull away from you until you change into 4th gear????

In the wet the car will be no fun to drive at all?

hey bigcarl....i have the same setup as u...and pull the same power i am up to 280kw atw now....i am getting cam gear and tomie popcam and greddy plenum for abit more power and more respon...but i have to say i love this turbo..it pull so hard and boost coming very quick. i can rev it out to 8000rpm..this turbo is so good on the street..

I was getting around 260rwkw with a 0.61 housing on a 3037S 56T at 1 bar with a very restrictive cat back. It was so restrictive that the car was struggling to make 300rwkw at higher boost. When boost hit, it was on/off at 3000rpm, so I even got massive spin in 4th gear at 100km/h at light throttle - made street driving quite scary at time (traffic).

I changed to the 0.87 (bought from US for around 450-500AUD delivered) and a free flowing cat back - huge difference, made 280rwkw on 1.2bar with a very conservative tune. More aggressive tuning and around 22psi saw 320rwkw. EDIT: 1- 1.2 bar by 3800rpm(from memory), but with the ability to control the boost with the throttle.

All done on 98ron pump fuel. Other mods, hks 256/264 cams, exhaust cam gear, manifold, trust plenum and the engine was decompressed with a hks 1.6mm head gasket to achieve 8.5:1 CR.

From what I have seen though, hks turbos have different power delivery to plain garrett type, so not really a perfect comparison. Perhaps you could pm someone like freebaggin who runs the same turbo as yours???

If you tune your boost curve you can have both, with the smaller exhaust housing.  But with the larger exhaust housing, you don't have this option.  I would ALWAYS recommend using the smallest exhaust housing that suites your power target.  That way you choose the boost curve, not the turbine.:)

By tuning boost curve to get it coming on a little later.... what would you do?

Say with a .63 too get it coming on around 4k instead of 3.5k to reduce wheelspin, but keep it going nicely.

Without an EBC in this instance

OH, and to eliminate unwanted wheelspin, rear camber arms, mechanical diff and a hicas lock do wonders, especially when teamed up with R type rubber.

indeed, but when my car has none of them... and a very much older (read primiative) IRS Rear end the squats more than it should...

I have no issues, which i can only attribute to the motor/turbo combination side of things

tuning boost curve - eliminating a sudden ramp onto boost that can sometimes see powers jump 1-200kw in a few hundred rpm.

yes, but how... but adding more fuel and making it flat ?

im just curious... not exactly sure so im looking for idiots english :rofl:

yeah thats right , just trying to impress my mates, i dont know many chick my age {30s} or my wife being very impressed with my owning a skyline never mind bagging it up, she hates the thing!!! lol .was that 280rwkws with same set up as mine with cams and plenum or without?

hey sydney kid would a set of tomei pon cams make much more power in mid range and top end? im running stock cams at the moment?

Yep, as posted many times, it's a very worthwhile upgrade once you have done the usual exhaust, turbo, ECU, FMIC, injectors, fuel pump stuff. Max power around 15 rwkw increase, and average power closer to 25 rwkw.

yes, but how... but adding more fuel and making it flat ?

im just curious... not exactly sure so im looking for idiots english

Tune it for max power, lock the wastegate closed until the exact target boost is achieved. As much ignition advance as it will take at each load point. Same for fuel, aim for 12 to 1 at each load point. Then look at the power graph, and start tuning the boost curve to suite the power delivery you want.

Personally I can't drive a car FAST that doubles its power output in 500 rpm, so I smooth the power curve out by reducing the boost. I have simple rules of thumb, I want the highest average power I can get to allow for rpm drop on gearchanges. So I don't reduce the power in that rpm range (say 4,750 rpm to 7,750 rpm). That way it is still as fast as it can be when I want it to be.

Once I have done that I can usually go backand slip a little more ignition advance into it, at the rpms that I have reduced the boost. This makes it more responsive.

The guy who tunes my cars (I do a bit myself, but he is much better than me) hates my guts. It is a lot more time consuming than simply tuning for max power, which is what most people ask him to do. In fact most people just drive in and say "tune it", so they get his version (which is not THAT bad). For some people that may be fine, but not for me. Thar's why I say to people, spend some time with your tuner and discuss with him what you want from your car.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

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