Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, I am new here and about to purchase my first skyline.

Just wanna see if you guys think this is an ok deal, as I am close to buy this car.

R33 Series1 oct 1993

Just been Complied..

$19000 which includes

6 months rego, stamp duty aussie stereo installed, imobiliser installed (so drive away price)

has done 107000 KM's - Just had major service (timing belt, plugs etc)

Black - just resprayed, had scratches on it from japan. Have seen proof of why the respray was neccessary.

Stock standard car.

Has full JAP service history..

Seems to drive ok..

So can you guys please assure me that this is not too expensive for what I am about to buy, as i have seen a few other cars advertised arround for about the same price but have less KM's on them..

This is 19000 drive away..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70205-advice-r33-gtst-19000/
Share on other sites

i can offer you a '96 series 2 r33 gtst for $20k

rwc, rego until december

68,000 kms

Solid red ...

brant a002 immob

infact, just head over to carsales to see the full ad

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...rch_distance=10

personally, i'd say spending 1k more for a '96 series 2 is worth it !

Hi All, I am new here and about to purchase my first skyline.

Just wanna see if you guys think this is an ok deal, as I am close to buy this car.

R33 Series1 oct 1993

Just been Complied..

$19000 which includes

6 months rego, stamp duty aussie stereo installed, imobiliser installed (so drive away price)

has done 107000 KM's - Just had major service (timing belt, plugs etc)

Black - just resprayed, had scratches on it from japan. Have seen proof of why the respray was neccessary.

Stock standard car.

Has full JAP service history..

Seems to drive ok..

So can you guys please assure me that this is not too expensive for what I am about to buy, as i have seen a few other cars advertised arround for about the same price but have less KM's on them..

This is 19000 drive away..

Cheers

haha he's in brisbane so i dont think it'd be easy for him to see it :P

yeah brisbane here man.. Bummer hey..

The one thing i like about this car is i would be the first aussie owner..(doesn't really mean jack) and it has full log books from japan (dont mean much either cause i cant read them.)...

Broken down the car would cost me $17850 + ORC.. with imobiliser install thrown in to

=$19000

Anyone know and dealers in brisbane/goldcoast with any better deals?

That's not a good deal, shop around, wait a bit. Private seller is better price too, I got a series II with light mods for $17.5

Or just tell the dealer you'll give him $16k and be prepared to walk if he says no. 17.85 is a rip-off for a 93 model and the dealer would be well-aware of that.

It is not to bad for a dealer i thought, but the respray sounds a bit dodgy - makesure your convinced on the reasons for the respray.

You could get a lot better car for that price in a private sale.

About the km's, I think that is a great sign, if those log books are genuine, almost all skylines have their clocks wound back and prolly have up to twice what the odo says.

107000 KM's is definatly not to much if they are genuine - which the logs books would indicate.

I paid $19000 for mine in a private sale about a year ago, which was a lot, but I don't think there was a better one in Briz for sale at the time (considering what I was looking for), I looked at 14 lines over about 2 months, most were $1000 - $3000 cheaper, but I was willing to pay the higher price for this one.

Have you looked at any other Skylines yet? Don't make the mistake of just buying the first car you see...

If you're patient and look around a bit more, you'll notice that the price is a little high for an early Series 1 R33. For $19k, you'd want it to either have some decent mods, less km's or be a fair bit newer. Have a look on carsales.com.au to get a better idea for what they're selling for - private sales are usually a fair bit cheaper than dealers.

Good luck :P

My advice:

1)look at at least 5 cars before you even think of buying something - even if you think you have just found the best deal ever - trust me there are better deals out there.

2) Keep a good eye out on these forums, some seriously good deals come up fairly regularly - I know because I have been kicking myself seeing what some really nice lines are going for on these forums.

The one thing i like about this car is i would be the first aussie owner..(doesn't really mean jack)

Sure it does mean something.

So for all Skylines in Japan or just from Japan:

Thrashed by Japs

So for all Skylines in Australia from Japan:

Thrashed by Japs

Thrashed by Aussies

---

Hey if you can take some of the thrashing out it's got to be a good thing.

And since no one has mentioned it so far. Don't believe the k's. They are reasonably irrelevant. Just look at condition. I can't believe there are people around here that seriously think 40-80,000 on an 8-12 year old car is genuine.

No one mentioned getting a 1989/90/91 GT-R for $20k? Maybe you can't get them for that in Brisneyland.

Getting a 1995 GTS25-T ~90k kms completely stock in great nick (fully tested, compression, leak down etc) for $14500 on road (well my onroads are more but are paid for me ;) )

Sure it does mean something.

So for all Skylines in Japan or just from Japan:

Thrashed by Japs

So for all Skylines in Australia from Japan:

Thrashed by Japs

Thrashed by Aussies

---

Hey if you can take some of the thrashing out it's got to be a good thing.

Yeah but on the other hand I've always assumed that if you buy a car from an Aussie owner you can sometimes see the owner for themselves, guage how they feel about the car, whether they love the car. Not all owners thrash their cars - I don't thrash mine, I drive it fast sometimes but that's not thrashing it. I service it regularly, hell I even fix stuff that doesn't really need it just to be sure.

Also, cars that come from Japan can have some issues from sitting out on the docks for many months, maintenance things that haven't been done for a while etc....those aren't problems if the car's been here for a year or so.

You might have a 93 car that's had 5 jap owners versus a 97 car that's had one jap owner and one aussie one. I know which one I'd want :)

If I wanted a car with no aussie owners I'd want to import it myself not buy it from some dealer. At least then you get EXACTLY what you want, you know what it looks like before the detailing and dealer panelbeating, and most importantly you KNOW that it's straight from Japan.

How do you even know this R33 has had no aussie owners? Cos the dealer told you?

As for the GT-Rs - they're not as many of them for 20k here as down south but they're around. Only problem is, unless youre reall lucky I would assume that if you spend 20k you better have a few grand ready just in case because at $20k a GT-R is probably old, possibly dodgy and DEFINITELY expensive to fix if you're unlucky.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...