Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DSC_3031.jpg

DSC_3034.jpg

DSC_3035.jpg

DSC_3055.jpg

left side damaged, all the engine stuff havn't been damaged at all.

all damaged stuff list

passanger side door window mirror, pillar,

windscreen

passanger side fengder and the indicator cover

roof

now sell he lot or can seperate

give me an offer if u interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70418-fs-94-r33-gtst-s1-parts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

this car had done 10k kms and in very gd condition just serviced in the same day of the accident.

can be reparid if u got the parts and if u can find a honest panel beater u can fix it for around 6-8k include parts...

(wheels and aftermarket parts will be replaced to stock as i got another one to install)

How much for the

1.Ash tray box with the lid.

2. Drivers side power window control surround, not the actual controls, the thing that peals easily.

3. The steering wheel with everything you need to hook it up to the r33.

4. Your gauge cluster does it have the plastic screen infront too.

I would like to buy these parts in one lot, so pm me a price.

Will

yes he got everyparts needed to fix it up. prefer sum1 buying the lot.

parts needed:

passanger's side door

wind screen

passangers side guard

passangers side indicator cover

the dash

passangers side seat's rail (just banded, can be fixed)

passangers side skirt

the car frame or just the passanger's front metal pillar

those won't cost u so much and u can have it as new after fixed up

hey, is the mount for the bonnet hinge damaged? it doesnt look like it is, if its fine, then how much are u looking @ selling it for? and also the drivers side side skirt?

the mount is not damaged at all , and the driver's side is like new...someone offered 6500 but havn't decided, i will wait until tusday after that, all the offers for parts will be seriously considered.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...