Jump to content
SAU Community

Building a 10" tube

grandmasterb

By grandmasterb,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
interesting though. Ive never looked into using fibreglass . i just want to keep this one simple and cover PVC in carpet. The small idea ive got is putting a thin neon light inside the tube and cut out the word SKYLINE or something into the PVC.Then use some tinted plexi/perspex to cover underneath. Ill heat it up and form it into a curve to fit and make it airtight. Hopefully it will look the goods and not tacky

Gotta get the pipe and also figure out the airspace i need for a 10" kicker sub. ill do some searching on this unless its allways the same for basic 10" sub like mine?

DEJAVU :wassup:

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
wtf that was weird!  

pics be good. im sourcing some 'free' pipe next week. will let you know how it goes

There is plent of it around mate, just make its no smaller than 3mm in thickness. I got a couple of pics for ya.

chowetime Enthusiast

chowetime

Posted
Posted

the thing is with the PVC is that it is a very thin type material only a couple of mm thick ( I know so is fibreglass but the way it is constructed is different) so unless you are planning to fill it with some sort of filler the sound coming from this will sound thin and almost sound echoed also this will also be harder to get a good seal on it...

I have seen thick cardboard tubing this could work well as long as you roughed up the outside surface and applied the fibreglass to that that will work ok and will give a better sound ( make sure the cardboard does not have a wax type finish if you glass it)

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the thing is with the PVC is that it is a very thin type material only a couple of mm thick ( I know so is fibreglass but the way it is constructed is different) so unless you are planning to fill it with some sort of filler the sound coming from this will sound thin and almost sound echoed also this will also be harder to get a good seal on it...  

I have seen thick cardboard tubing this could work well as long as you roughed up the outside surface and applied the fibreglass to that that will work ok and will give a better sound ( make sure the cardboard does not have a wax type finish if you glass it)

I hear what ya saying, thats why i built 2. One with PVC and the other with cardboard. I can't really see/hear any difference in them at all. I have SD composite inside both tubes and they have been sealed and covered with carpet. PVC that is 3mm thick or fibreglass that is 3mm thick is still 3mm thick at the end of the day. I know that they both have different material bases and what not, but if you make a tube out of cardboard or out of PVC then the same principles apply with the enclosure. You still have to have the same volume for the woofer, it has to be sealed and tight and some sort of SD inside to stop the resinance. They both have there pro's and cons but when it comes to the end of day you go with with whats going to work the best and cost the less. Fibreglass is very expensive and PVC/cardboard isn't. Its very easy to fix if you make a mistake with PVC/cardboard and it is easy to a degree with FG but you have to wait for it to dry and then that requires sanding, and starting again.

I think it comes to personal preference, but after talking to some pro installer/builders and the bulid instructions and materials that they gave me i can't complain and i think it will work well.

What ever floats ya boat at the end of the day :P

chowetime Enthusiast

chowetime

Posted
Posted

I built a fibreglass box for my previous car and I must admit I was very nervous about doing it as it was laid inside the car so 1 stuff up could of meant disaster and a long time on the grinder getting it out... but it all went well and have since done other peoples installs the glass and resin I got from a local boat builder I got 4 meters of glass and enough catylist and resin to do it and it cost me about $60 the wood framing I picked up from Bunnings at a cost of $10... but hey I like your ideas it has given me something to think about for my new car due to space limitations on the skylines

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I built a fibreglass box for my previous car and I must admit I was very nervous about doing it as it was laid inside the car so 1 stuff up could of meant disaster and a long time on the grinder getting it out... but it all went well and have since done other peoples installs the glass and resin I got from a local boat builder I got 4 meters of glass and enough catylist and resin to do it and it cost me about $60 the wood framing I picked up from Bunnings at a cost of $10... but hey I like your ideas it has given me something to think about for my new car due to space limitations on the skylines

Thats the only draw back really with FG, if you mess up it takes a little to fix it up.

The 2 box's that i built cost me about $50 for the both of them, so that wasn't to bad i thought. I got some pics so when i get my cable back i'll post em up so you can have a look :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • hardsteppa
      Hi everyone.

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...