Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone done before/after dyno with this exhaust cam gear yet?

Is an aftermarket ECU 'required' for these or is it only an 'advantage' ?

I'm looking for little things to get me up over 210rwkw on the Std ECU/Turbo and this looks like the next step.

Whats the typical cost to have these installed + tuned at a dyno shop ?

Edit: I was also liking the rice factor of the HKS Purple+Blue :P

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Guys, I bought a set of Jun adjustable cam gears on the forum a few weeks ago. They appear to be standard Nissan GTR pulleys with the centre machined out and replaced with a steel adjuster. If they are standard Nissan teeth they will obviously last as long as they would unmodified, provided the centre line of the adjuster is lined up properly during the machining process. They have 5 adjuster bolts which should provide more than sufficient retention.

UniqueAutosports sell modified standard pulleys for $185 each for the standard weight and $195 for the lightweight ones. So, as long as they have the same accuracy of centring there should be no problems with theirs either.

If you are not looking for looks (the HKS ones do look trick) or extreme lightweight, these are viable options.

Hope that helps.

I wouldn't bother loosing the VVT until over 250rwKW, and use the cam gears in conjunction with better cams.

Steve, Thanks for the link, what would the postage be? I have worked it out before, and the group buy idea is better as only one postage cost is needed.

See'ya:burnout:

GTS-t VSPEC,

costs:

http://www.greenline.jp/info.php

says:

The following table indicates the shipping costs to Zone 2, which includes Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada and any country in Europe. For other countries, please contact [email protected]

Base rate (up to 1 kg) ¥3990

For each 500g more than 1 kg ¥525

Works out at about $55AUD for the first kg (ouch), but $14.50 for every kg there after, which is a bit better.

when were you thinking of getting these? Soonish I hope. I'm after 1 (for now - maybe 2 later), and wouldn't mind jumping on the group buy bandwagon

Cheers

Steve

Steve,

Can you find out the weight of the cam gears, plus are there any additional taxes that need to be pay for goods coming into Australia?

I can buy them whenever, just trying to find somewhere which is cheaper than I can get them here.

See'ya:burnout:

Not too sure about taxes, have you had a chat to customs. From most of the feedback I have read, it seems that if it is under $1000AUD they dont seem to worry a heap - never know for sure though. I did get my turbo through, but the guy at the other end put it down as about $380AUD - they opened it for inspection, but didnt hit me any duty.

I will drop them a line, and ask about quantity for group discount and unit weight.

Steve

so on a car with a big turbo (like a HKS 3040) and the usual other mods like fuel pump, injectors, engine management (I have HKS FCONV, VPC and PFC-FCON), exhaust, intercooler. Would it be worth removing the VVT and getting a cam gear for both inlet and exhaust? It's an RB25DET, and what sort of cams should i go for? 256 Duration and 8.8mm lift? or bigger, to something like 264 duration and 9mm lift? What would the difference be between the two cams?

I'm liking the sound of the Toda gears myself! The top end power is pretty good so i'm more after some street usable mid-range at this stage. I've also read on the other CAM thread that you might be able to get the inlet cam slotted to allow adjustment and still keep the VVT.... is this true or not worth it?

Thanks

Andrew

GiJOR33,

With a setup like that, then yes I'd do both cam gears. Sounds like a similar setup to what I'm going for.

Cam's I'd go for the 264's, but the 256's are also very good.

Yes, it is possible to slot the existing gear, but the VVT doesn't have sufficient impact to make it worthwhile doing at big horsepower.

See'ya:burnout:

A guy at work machined out the centres of my steel gears and replaced them with adjustable alloy centres (which he made as well). They allow +/- 4 degrees adjustment and only cost me $17 for the materials and a slab for the labour.

Guys go to a machining company with a design and all your standard gears in bulk and it will cost you **** all to get them modify.

Why buy wanky brand name gear? It doesn't make your car go any faster and it costs a fortune.

Pawley, I think the UAS ones are made exactly the same way as Rowdyr32's are. That would mean they have like a $150 markup on them. Which I guess isn't over the top, but if you look around enough you can probably get it done cheaper (let's all ask Rowdyr32's mate if he wants to do some more for us ;))

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...