Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm currently looking at purchasing either a R33 GTS-T S2, or a R34 GT-T.

I'd be streching myself to afford the R34 GT-T, but after managing to score a test drive in one, I fell in love with it. What i'd like to know, without having to waste a sellers time, is how different the R33 is to drive compared to the R34, assuming both cars are standard? The R34 was very nice to drive.. I loved the gearbox (are the manual gearboxes in the R33 / R34 the same?), and loved the direct handling... the power delivery felt quite linear, with plenty of torque down low.

I'd also like to know how much more reliable the R34 would be (if any?) than the R33, as I do 30,000kms a year and need a reliable car... hence my interest in a skyline, as they seem to be a pretty reliable car, even with the occasional track/WSID day.

Thanks all - I realise I could go and find out this information by test driving one, but I hate wasting someones time... :D As you can tell, i'm hoping the R33 drives similar to the R34, haha.

Tommo.

Definitely R34. I've driven a 33 and own a 34. The 34 just handles so much tighter, and with a decent suspension mods and good tyres, you should have better handling and response than a 33 with same mods.

Also the fact that they are newer.

My 2C! :)

The best thing you can do is to test drive an equally nice - for it's age - S2 R33 GTS-T. You can then weigh up the differences. I believe the R34 would be the better of the two, however it also costs twice as much (roughly).

Unfortunately, due to budget constraints, i'm going to go for a clean R33 S2. I'll just fit a Whiteline works fit to it, as that should bring it up to scratch in the handling department.

Thanks for your advice.. I wish I could go the R34, but oh well :P

Cheers,

Tommo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...