Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Steve,

Even clearer now, just like putting glasses on. I'm running at the Motorplex on Wednesday, I'll fit the pinapples after that and then compare my times.

Anyone with info on running with camber? The R33's do have camber bolts don't they?

See'ya:burnout:

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Skyzerr33,

Thanks for clearing that up, cheers mate.

Rob77,

I didn't say it didn't work for him, but I was told in general that it was a waste of time. Does anyone else run low pressures? If so what pressure and what tyres are they on?

See'ya :burnout:

have drag raced for quite a few years and running low tyre pressures is the way to do things. I forgot to let my tyres down last time and I was lucky enough to meet a bloke with a tyre guage.

19/20 psi or lower for most tyres. Your sidewalls will stay on the rim as long as you don't try going around corners real fast.

Zoom can kiss my ass! A sample size of at least 30 is required to make something statistically valid (though not necessarily absolutley true) I wish I had a dollar for every time something is 'proven' by a test involving 3 or 4 cars, products or runs.

Heyas,

I Have JIC Coilovers and my ride is as hard as all hell! due to the firmness of the coilovers and the hardness will that be an advatnage when i decide to do the quarter? Prob would stop a bit of squatting at the start fo the drag but would it in any way help out wiht wheelspin or would the cradle kit and pineaples still be the way to go?

I guess everyone has their own thoughts on tyre pressure, but personally, I don't think lower pressure on street tyres will make much of a difference.. but of course, there's so many different tyres, and every one runs different rim width and diameter sizes so who knows..... what's good pressure for someone, may prove to be slower for others.

I first run (out of 8) gave me my second quickest time. This was on standard tyre press of 34psi, and I'm pretty sure that my quickest time was only better because I was starting to get the launches down pat. I won't bother lowering pressure next time.

my 2c.

This is just like the burnout, no burnout argument.

I was doin burnouts before each run last wednesday assuming it was giving me traction. Since then i've heard of many people that it makes f#ck all diference on street tyres. But on sunday I started off the day with no burnouts but found first gear just kept spinning. So I tried doin the burnouts again and ran 13.74.

Originally posted by rob77

I couldnt be assed connecting my scanner and loading up the software (cos I havent reloaded it since I re-did windows). So I took a photo of it.

a photo slacker

hey i may be missreading it but when your at the drags that sheet is telling me you should be changing gears just before 5500rpm each change other wise you gonna start decelerating. and you want to be launching at about 2500rpm as you start to get a bag fall of torque then.

Originally posted by skyzerr33

yes i know

but torque is related to acceleration

when your torque starts to drop off is when you want change gears otherwise you'll start to loose momentom. that why i say you have to know your car

Change gears around your horsepower peak buddy.

Before or after depends on how sharp the fall off is and what the gear ratios are like.

Rob: as above.

:P

Originally posted by skyzerr33

hey i may be missreading it but when your at the drags that sheet is telling me you should be changing gears just before 5500rpm each change other wise you gonna start decelerating. and you want to be launching at about 2500rpm as you start to get a bag fall of torque then.

You also need to take into account where the change will put you in the rev range for the next gear. No use changing at 5500 if it puts you in a crap place in the next gear.

You should experiment according to the dyno sheet and find a balance.

Originally posted by rob77

Managed to pull 273.5PS @ 6608rpm on the rear wheels, using Speedworks new DynaPak dyno.

With the mods you have, 273 sounds close to the hp you'd have at the engine, not the wheels. Are Speedworks sure the dyno wasn't set to estimate power at the engine?

in that case I can't help but think you have other mods done to your car than what you're telling us

also why are cars in the wrong classes?? like has everyone had an engine conversion to something drastically larger?

eg ur in 3401cc - 4500cc

what engine u running??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...