Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dude, I will be getting Falken Azenis for my 18's i think.

I run 235/40/18 and 265/35/18 , not sure if they come in 265 (or if i want them in that size - my car is pretty tail happy) but i will definately get them on the front.

Falkens are good but i find they wear out fast, the falkens on the front of mine are hell grippy but i need to replace them and at $505 a tyre you could have guessed im not using them again. I just put Kumo's on the back, they arent as good in the dry but they are the best wet tyre ive ever come across and i used to have the specific wet tyre off falken. Plus they were only 285 each bargain!!:uh-huh:

Originally posted by s13drifter

Oh that price is on 265/35/18 so id think yours would be even cheaper:D

shit man, what are they called?? and where did you get them from?? thats hella cheap!!

Originally posted by DentonR33

And your happy with them ONARUN?  Good grip in dry/wet>

What kinda kms you get out of a set?

i haven't gone through a set yet as i've only owned car for 1.5 months before accident. the deal with them is they grip and keep on gripping until they reach their absolute limit when they let go. you might say all tyres do that and you would be right but this set gives you no warning (screech) before they let go. pretty good in the wet too. most everyone you ask will talk them up and the reason is they are pretty much the best tyre you can get for under $250

kms/set depends on your driving habits as always;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...