Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just trying to get the Air/fuel ratio close on my car so i can drive it to the tuner (4 hours drive :D )

I understand the Apexi turbo timers is just an estimate but is there a way to get it close enough so i can drive my car to get it tuned, trailering it is out of the option too!

How do you set up the O2 voltage my car at idle reads 1020v (on the power FC) theres no 1020v setting on the APexi TT!!!!!

Can anyone help me out???

Thanks

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71307-apexi-pen-turbo-timer-af-tune/
Share on other sites

the 02 reads between 0.00mv and 0.10mv or 1.00mv. I think you are referring the airflow meter value? AF in the sensor display is airflow meter and it will be around 1.00volts at idle (its max value is 5.00volts). The pen timer needs to have its wire tapped into the cars ecu loom (02 wire which is oxygen sensor not airflow meter). once that is doen you can with handbrake pulled up move to a/f o/2 on the timer press right and then it will show theoritical value then press left, move up to a/f, press right and it will show a/f and then flash to oxygen sensor value and then back again. once its working when you move the timer to display a/f instead of it showing --- and light changing from green/red constantly it will show like 18.5 or higher at idle and "green" for lean and then when you drive it should hover around 13.0 ish and god mixed between orange and red for rich. if you still have --- no matter what make sure when you move the timer to display oxygen (the 2nd item of the four) it has a value and the value is changing all the time, thats the oxygen sensor value. if its 0 or --- then its not wired in correctly or the 02 sensor is dead. they die after about 50,000 k ish

I understand its unaccurate, but i thought i could at least get it close! That doesnt help me out though!!!

Anyone got any ideas on how to get a close read out??? as 4 hours is along way to drive when the cars either rich or lean! i dont wanna damage it on the way there!

Ok i understand now.

You have upgraded the injectors.

Therfore the standard ecu won't run it (it will overfuel by a mile)

However, in the powerFC, there is an option which will trim the entire base map to suit larger injectors, without changing every parameter. (Have to do a search, im not familiar with the powerfc, to find what setting you have to change)

If you don't change this, it will overfuel with the bigger injectors, the same as what will happen with the stock ecu.

Do you have the Turbo Timer wired up to the O2 sensor at all?

If it is wired up it will give the feedback from the standard "Narrow Band" O2 sensor.

However i wouldn't use this sensor to tune, its highly innacurate at anything but stoich ratio's.

Yep the stock computer runs very rich, very very rich as the injectors are upgraded!

yeah i have changed the whole map in the Power FC so that it is close, but all i did was change the injector flow down untill it stoped belching black smoke out the exhaust!

On the power FC i had to bump the injector flow down to 44% (base map is 100%) as it was overfueling!

The timer is wired up to the 02 sensor (exhaust sensor) im getting a readout but it says like 12.8 and then i read that you can alter the setting of the O2 read out, something-arother about depending on the voltage of the o2 senser!

If i have the car running rich (like as close as i can tell, by bumping the whole flow up and down) would it be fine to drive???? can any harm happen from running the car rich?

My cars been out of action for 5 months now, so as you can imagine im itching to get it tuned and back on the road...My R31 just doesnt cut it :rofl:

If you have the maps trimmed down so they are close, what you will find is under light load driving (i.e off boost) it will be running in closed loop operation and maintaining a stoich ratio of 14.7:1 and your plugs won't foul.

(Closed loop is where the ecu uses the feedback from the 02 sensor to trim the injector pulse to keep a stoich ratio, minimising emissions and maximising economy)

So if you drive under that condition, it should be fine.

If it were a brand new motor just rebuilt, i would advise against running it rich as the rings won't bed properly and this needs to happen in the first few hundred km's of driving.

If the motor has just had bolt ons applied, i wouldn't worry to much.

Just drive it offboost so it can run in closed loop and your plugs wont foul.

If you boost it and the plugs foul, you may not get the car there without removing and cleaning them.

Not a job you really want to do on the side of the road.

Running it a little rich is safer than having it lean out; I suppose, at the worst, you'll just foul your 'plugs up a bit and lose a bit of power on the run there. The former is easily fixed, and the latter is basically redundant as you're getting it tuned anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...