Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rob77,

Nah, Hicks can't speak english, he barely manages to drool. His parent dropped him on his head when he was a baby, I'm surprised he's smart enough to keep breathing.

He obviously can't think for himself, when people say "Hick's go do a burnout man!", he just says "Uh,..OK!"

Just kidding Hicks, well sort of.:slap:

See'ya:burnout:

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hicks,

I think you and I have lost complete control in this thread, oh well nobody else will be reading it by now. But seriously I'm sure some of us can hook you up with a good tough clutch, relatively cheap, and then you can be on your way again.

Do you run on full boost at the drags? Octane booster?

See'ya:burnout:

Yeah full boost!

And I had some wynns octane booster in there, because it was day time and quite hot. But I think the stuff is shit.

And also I saw on another thread you said that you heard that lowering the pressure in tyres doesn't work, but I recomend doing it. I'm pretty sure it helps.

About 20psi, and I filled the fronts up to like 45psi.

I've also been told that doin a burnout on a street tyre before you race makes no diference, but today I started off with no burnout and was spinning first everytime. Then I smoked it up a bit before hand, and ran 13's.

Back on thread and there are sad bast**rds like me reading at this time of night.

Go the single plate brass button sprung centre with uprated pressure from ross at Autoclutch.

So far I have recommended about 6 guys from here ( GTR's and GTST's have used him and I've had 6x GTR , 300ZX TT and rex clutches) off him with no prob.

Ken

Yeh yeh, back on topic...

Peer pressure's a bitch for Ben!

he didnt want to do the burnout first, but then we all egged him on... all the while he was saying was "nah, my clutch is f*cked, i shouldnt" then when the clutch started smokin instead of the tyres we all cringed and said "heh, what do you know he was right!"

Sorry Ben!

Originally posted by Hicks

Rev210, How much did you pay??

Do you have a photo?

Dude check this thread out, got the pics. $330 for the clutch plate I paid. Don't install yourself, putting the gearbox back in is more pain than the $250 for labour.

http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...=&threadid=6748

:D

Originally posted by gtrken

Go the single plate brass button sprung centre with uprated pressure from ross at Autoclutch.

So far I have recommended about 6 guys from here ( GTR's and GTST's have used him and I've had 6x GTR , 300ZX TT and rex clutches) off him with no prob.

Ken

Yeah thats the one i will be going for! I was quoted $600 fitted but didn't gtstvspec say he could get good deals on clutches?

are you able to see if you can get a better deal for SAU boys?

Also is Macka still running standard clutch? I still am and as a result have to launch quite nicely.... hence the reason while no quarter mile times..... after nect couple of engine mods are done loks like the next thing will be the clutch!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...