Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per topic.

Sound deadening the Cef. I want to do it once, and I want to do it properly. First thing, Im not going to do it myself. I get far too frustrated working on cars, especially when I have NO idea on what Im doing.

So far my research has come up with using dynamat or a similar product, and from what I could understand from what I was reading you kind of want to make the hollow of the door your effective speaker box. This meaning you have to basically fill up all the holes in it?

Anyway, my questions are.

Where to go,

What to use,

How much I should be paying, (Id just be doing the two front doors).

Anything inparticular I should be asking said company to do/not do.

Anything else I should know.

Also, I have MB Quart splits, so they can handle a bit of power, hence Im not using them properly due to the insane abount of door rattles.

Thanks!

hi dangerous

i did both my doors and under the rear seats. i used serenity max but any quality sound deadener will do the trick.

it is very do-able if you can get the door trims off the Ceffy (i have an R33 so i am unsure of the differences on removing the trim).

if you go to www.fhrxstudios.com there are some pics of FHRX's installs if you do a bit of a search. (in "images of interest" in the 'images' page)

it will take about 30mins-45 mins/door taking your time.

i think i wrote a DIY guide somewhere here. a search might find it. if not i can take the door trim off and take some snaps and email them to you.

this is the best improvement you can make for your sound system under $120.

The one I read was using mdf cut outs to fill in gaps in the door webbing/structural stuff. And he was talking about using tar as well as the mat things???

I should also probably mention Id be getting the tweeters re-aimed, and the drivers remounted properly so they have some kind of angle on them. IE something a pro should do a hell of a lot quicker than me.

what price for the frustration....err....satisfaction of doing it yourself.

the offcuts can be pinned to the skin of the door itselt. i presume the paint is a great option but for $100 ish this works a treat.

is your speaker mounted on mdf?? i guess that's what you were reading?!?

No sorry, the speakers are just in the stock positions. So I guess on to the metal? orginal screw holes. I didnt install it, I can make more money doing my job than wasting a day doing it myself :rofl: And yeah, the door skins do come off easy.

I did mine myself daveo - if you wanted photos of how I did it in the cef I could email them to you should you want to see them.

I think I used dynamat or something and I can't really remember but I got about 4kg of it from fhrx. Can't remember what he charged me for that cos I got a few other things too. I also used a couple of tiles of stinger roadkill which was a bit thinner but worked well where I needed it.

Probably takes a pro about 3 hrs? Wouldn't know how much they charge.

Good luck.

A few people have mentioned the sound deadening theory I wrote over PM's so I'll chuck the addy up here and some images:

This is the reason why we use sound deadening.

For images of what it should look like, Click here. :(

There are guides floating around of how to do entire doors too for various cars, some are:

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=498227

http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=92055

Hope that helps a little. :)

Fhrx, dude, that is AWESOME, thanks for that one. I gota admit, that is the way to do business alrite!

Still anyone got a rough idea of cost? Its more so I dont want to get ripped off. If I go in to a shop with a lot more idea of what they are ment to do (as I do to a point now) then yeah, less chance of getting done over.

But Fhrx man, thats bloody awesome hey, more so your service, you put the whole thing on a CD for them! How good is that!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...