Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per topic.

Sound deadening the Cef. I want to do it once, and I want to do it properly. First thing, Im not going to do it myself. I get far too frustrated working on cars, especially when I have NO idea on what Im doing.

So far my research has come up with using dynamat or a similar product, and from what I could understand from what I was reading you kind of want to make the hollow of the door your effective speaker box. This meaning you have to basically fill up all the holes in it?

Anyway, my questions are.

Where to go,

What to use,

How much I should be paying, (Id just be doing the two front doors).

Anything inparticular I should be asking said company to do/not do.

Anything else I should know.

Also, I have MB Quart splits, so they can handle a bit of power, hence Im not using them properly due to the insane abount of door rattles.

Thanks!

hi dangerous

i did both my doors and under the rear seats. i used serenity max but any quality sound deadener will do the trick.

it is very do-able if you can get the door trims off the Ceffy (i have an R33 so i am unsure of the differences on removing the trim).

if you go to www.fhrxstudios.com there are some pics of FHRX's installs if you do a bit of a search. (in "images of interest" in the 'images' page)

it will take about 30mins-45 mins/door taking your time.

i think i wrote a DIY guide somewhere here. a search might find it. if not i can take the door trim off and take some snaps and email them to you.

this is the best improvement you can make for your sound system under $120.

The one I read was using mdf cut outs to fill in gaps in the door webbing/structural stuff. And he was talking about using tar as well as the mat things???

I should also probably mention Id be getting the tweeters re-aimed, and the drivers remounted properly so they have some kind of angle on them. IE something a pro should do a hell of a lot quicker than me.

what price for the frustration....err....satisfaction of doing it yourself.

the offcuts can be pinned to the skin of the door itselt. i presume the paint is a great option but for $100 ish this works a treat.

is your speaker mounted on mdf?? i guess that's what you were reading?!?

No sorry, the speakers are just in the stock positions. So I guess on to the metal? orginal screw holes. I didnt install it, I can make more money doing my job than wasting a day doing it myself :rofl: And yeah, the door skins do come off easy.

I did mine myself daveo - if you wanted photos of how I did it in the cef I could email them to you should you want to see them.

I think I used dynamat or something and I can't really remember but I got about 4kg of it from fhrx. Can't remember what he charged me for that cos I got a few other things too. I also used a couple of tiles of stinger roadkill which was a bit thinner but worked well where I needed it.

Probably takes a pro about 3 hrs? Wouldn't know how much they charge.

Good luck.

A few people have mentioned the sound deadening theory I wrote over PM's so I'll chuck the addy up here and some images:

This is the reason why we use sound deadening.

For images of what it should look like, Click here. :(

There are guides floating around of how to do entire doors too for various cars, some are:

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=498227

http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=92055

Hope that helps a little. :)

Fhrx, dude, that is AWESOME, thanks for that one. I gota admit, that is the way to do business alrite!

Still anyone got a rough idea of cost? Its more so I dont want to get ripped off. If I go in to a shop with a lot more idea of what they are ment to do (as I do to a point now) then yeah, less chance of getting done over.

But Fhrx man, thats bloody awesome hey, more so your service, you put the whole thing on a CD for them! How good is that!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...