Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya, after some suggestions.

My 32 is running lean. On the dyno it was idling at like 18 (a/f) and im told it should be at around 12

The ecu was remapped in Japan and im guessing to suit their 110/115 octane fuel. I think that is more than likely the problem, although have not checked fuel pump yet. Injectors are 650cc so they should be ok i guess.

It's going in on the dyno again to see if the problem can be located.

If the ecu does need remapping (which i currently cannot afford) can anyone suggest a cheaper, short term alternative?

Am using octane boost at the moment.

Cheers :)

I have been trying not to drive on boost.

Those ratios sound right (i lost my dyno sheet).

I spoke to my mechanic and after giving him more info he thinks its just the fuel pump, so looks like i could be wrong and ecu may not need a remap!!!

Will check pump, if not pump will replace ecu with stocker.

Cheers :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Wanna know some freaky shit, went to hyperdrive to source the problem and she's running no where near as lean as the previous dyno stated (that was at a workshop im quite unhappy with that will remain nameless). Running on the same boost today as she was the previous dyno run 2 months ago- nothing had been changed inbetween!!!

Boosted her up a bit and wallah, she's now running rich.

Boy is that a relief. Muchos gracias hyperdrivers =)

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...