Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day mates

just curious i wana import a car from japan...

model i wanted are 92,93 RX7 or GTST R33 or GTT R34

are they eligible to import??

if they are eligible how much will the compliance cost??

regards

Franky

92,93 rx7 cant not be imported but 89,88 model can and i belived 96+ can be but i belived that no shops have done compliance for them yet (i could be wrong)

Both R33 and R33 can be import, compliance cost can average from $3000 to $5000 depending on how you go to what extra you have done (for example i belived if the car is modded there is an extra cost in removing thou parts and putting them on after compliance)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1333364
Share on other sites

Imports 101 have both stock in japan and direct access to the auctions.

www.imports101.com.au

Import101 DO NOT HAVE STOCK IN JAPAN. They know how to ring a japanese exporter and buy from their stock list. There is a huge difference. What is stopping you ringing the japanese exporter yourself and buying the car without paying imports101 a service fee?

yeah they have access to the auctions but yet again they are probably just going through someone you could go through, with out the added costs.

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem with people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1336171
Share on other sites

']Both R33 and R33 can be import, compliance cost can average from $3000 to $5000 depending on how you go to what extra you have done (for example i belived if the car is modded there is an extra cost in removing thou parts and putting them on after compliance)

thats an interesting statement.... :)

ok i finished being a smartass and pointing out your typo :(

as for the importing... import a stock as a rock car IMO coz i would hate for bits to go missing on the way ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1337059
Share on other sites

15-22k for a s2 GTST R33 manual??

anyone is sellin their manual GTST S2??  

pls pm me

regards

Franky

Hey Franky, there is a shop off Alexander Drive (in malaga) that sell skylines, the dude imports them and has a workshop out the back which does complinces, me and my oldman went and had a talk to him he is a very nice dude, at the moment he only can import 33, they have about 5 or r33 (s1 and s2) and come with warrety wroth checking out if you wish to buy localy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1337970
Share on other sites

Import101 DO NOT HAVE STOCK IN JAPAN. They know how to ring a japanese exporter and buy from their stock list. There is a huge difference. What is stopping you ringing the japanese exporter yourself and buying the car without paying imports101 a service fee?

Of course, by stock I meant stock list. They don't officially have 'stock' as a broker. Although that won't stop them picking up bargins and on-selling them.

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem ith people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

And unless you have nothing better to do with your time, it definitely is the best way to go. How much time would the majority of us waste in $/hr chasing this stuff up that could be spent in making money? I don't know about you, but my time is a lot more valuable than that. Imports 101 (and other brokers i'm sure) take all the end to end hassel away from you. I could give you examples of cases where doing otherwise is clearly a waste of time if you really want it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338137
Share on other sites

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem with people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

why would you have a problem with someone doing it? They have complied and licensed thousands of cars, so they obviously know what & what not to do. Think about it, if everyone's best option was to do it themselves, there wouldn't be such a thing as import brokers, because no one would use them. Don't get me wrong, if you import privately because you want the experience or like the appeal of doing everything yourself, then that's fine...but if you're doing it to save yourself some money, and were barely talking 1K here, then it could backfire bigtime. Good luck, whichever path you choose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338190
Share on other sites

why would you have a problem with someone doing it? They have complied and licensed thousands of cars, so they obviously know what & what not to do. Think about it, if everyone's best option was to do it themselves, there wouldn't be such a thing as import brokers, because no one would use them. Don't get me wrong, if you import privately because you want the experience or like the appeal of doing everything yourself, then that's fine...but if you're doing it to save yourself some money, and were barely talking 1K here, then it could backfire bigtime. Good luck, whichever path you choose.

Hate to be the one to inform you mate :cheers: But you do everything your self even when you use an import broker.

Who contacts compliance? You do

Who sends all the paper work to compliance? You do

Who pays compliance? You do

Who pays the jap exporter? You do

Who contacts the customer broker? You do

Who pays the custom broker? You do

Who sends all the paper work to the compliance broker? You do

An import broker makes money because people think importing is hard and scary and they also think that they cant deal directly with the people they need to.

Lets look at what a broker does for you.

They can send you auction lists per day and allow you to bid. This is just done through a jap company, nothing is stopping you using the jap company yourself.

They have Web Pages that display cars in stock at Japanese export yards. Did you know these export yards also have a web site (in all cases I have seen) that give you the same access to viewing? Difference is you don’t pay a broker a fee.

They contact the exporter and arrange the buy. Did you know you can do this yourself? Email the guy in Japan? Closer to a deal? Ring the guy? plenty speak English or are aussie.

They give you details of compliance workshops and custom brokers. How hard is it to get these details anyway ask on forums? Look in the white or yellow pages?

Feel free to add anything I have missed.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338403
Share on other sites

And unless you have nothing better to do with your time, it definitely is the best way to go. How much time would the majority of us waste in $/hr chasing this stuff up that could be spent in making money? I don't know about you, but my time is a lot more valuable than that. Imports 101 (and other brokers i'm sure) take all the end to end hassel away from you. I could give you examples of cases where doing otherwise is clearly a waste of time if you really want it.

Brokers have ZERO control over the process all they do is pass on information to you.

When is it ever a good idea to have an extra person in the chain with no real input or control, just there recycling information?

It is much easier to deal with all the people involved by email or by phone if you need a quicker response.

If you don’t have time to send an email or make a 5 minute phone call then... keep using brokers because you seriously need the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338406
Share on other sites

Hate to be the one to inform you mate :cheers: But you do everything your self even when you use an import broker.

Who contacts compliance? You do

Who sends all the paper work to compliance? You do

Who pays compliance? You do

Who pays the jap exporter? You do

Who contacts the customer broker? You do

Who pays the custom broker? You do

Who sends all the paper work to the compliance broker? You do

Ok obviously different rules apply to differnt cars and import brokers, but Ive just imported an R32 GTR, and it was as easy as finding the vehicle & paying for it. Everything else is currently being done (freight, customs, compliance & licensing etc). As I work away, the $1200 fee seemed more than reasonable...but like I said previously, if your preference is to be more involved in the whole process, then obviously each to their own!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338463
Share on other sites

A trained monkey can cut and paste off www.japanautodirect.com ask other workshops who comply RAWS cars but who you didn't pay the $1,200 to what they think of their cars and how much they inflate the price.

It is a know fact and plastered over the net you pay their fee and they also get a commission off the Seller in Japan, the Customs Broker they recommend and they the workshop they recommend to comply it if they don't do it them self.

If your hourly rate at work is $300 pay a Broker as 4 hours is all it takes in time at most.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338565
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...