Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've got a R33 GTS-T with a standard clutch.

After two days of driving to work and back in absolute peak hour (ie bridge, epping road), the clutch seems to now shudder in first gear when taking off, especially when having to ride the clutch a little bit.

Is this caused by a car problem, or more by me (I've only owned the car a week, and this is the first time i've driven the car in traffic).

Cheers,

Tommo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/
Share on other sites

I've had the same problem sometimes driving my car in traffic, or slowly taking off. It really depends how much play you have in the clutch and where the friction point is. I find giving it more throttle earlier will prevent the clutch shudder. :cheers: Hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1334467
Share on other sites

Hi,

I've got a R33 GTS-T with a standard clutch.

After two days of driving to work and back in absolute peak hour (ie bridge, epping road), the clutch seems to now shudder in first gear when taking off, especially when having to ride the clutch a little bit.

Is this caused by a car problem, or more by me (I've only owned the car a week, and this is the first time i've driven the car in traffic).

Cheers,

Tommo.

Hi Tommo,

spoke to a couple of people regarding this..

seems like your clutch could actually be broken (or component thereof, ie spring, face etc).

It doesn't have to 'slip' to be considered worn.

Do all other gears changes behave? Is it the original standard (age wise) clutch.

Does she actually want to slip in say 4th or 5th when you rev the engine (while moving ofcourse) and drop the clutch?

Chances are it's not you, your gearbox or the rest of your car. Just the component(s) in that very area.

Prease Konsida!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1335393
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Thanks for all your help!!

I drove back into work tonight, but made sure I didn't ride the clutch at ALL, and I received no shutter.

All the gear changes are fine. Not sure if it's the original clutch, very hard to tell with an import. The clutch doesn't seem to slip at all, and still chirps second gear etc without a problem.

After speaking to a few friends, all signs point to a worn flywheel or clutch pressure plate. I'll continue to drive it for a while, and then pull the gearbox out and have a look.

Does this sound ok? :)

Cheers,

Tommo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1335581
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Thanks for all your help!!

I drove back into work tonight, but made sure I didn't ride the clutch at ALL, and I received no shutter.

All the gear changes are fine.  Not sure if it's the original clutch, very hard to tell with an import.  The clutch doesn't seem to slip at all, and still chirps second gear etc without a problem.  

After speaking to a few friends, all signs point to a worn flywheel or clutch pressure plate.  I'll continue to drive it for a while, and then pull the gearbox out and have a look.

Does this sound ok? :)

Cheers,

Tommo.

That sounds good, you can't do any further damage anyway!!

It'll just gradually get worse, like everything!

I bet it's the original clutch though!! I went thru the same ordeal 6 months back!!

Shudder,shudder, all cool for a while then "slip,slip!!".

You'll see when u pull it out!!

Remember though, slipping is more prevalent in higher gears!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1335608
Share on other sites

Maybe i'll get a mate to pull it out, and get a new clutch whilst i'm at it in that case.

I wonder if a Heavy Duty clutch as a replacement is a good idea or not, especially considering the traffic I have to drive through.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1335623
Share on other sites

Maybe i'll get a mate to pull it out, and get a new clutch whilst i'm at it in that case.

I wonder if a Heavy Duty clutch as a replacement is a good idea or not, especially considering the traffic I have to drive through.

Daily driver?, mild mods?....stick with the genuine OEM clutch (standard).

They're tuff and comfortable and controllable. (yur leg will thankyou).

Heavier mods? Track days?...go for an after market heavy duty type.

I'll stick with the original Skyline unit......they're ace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1335779
Share on other sites

Yeah it's a daily, with the odd drag racing day.  Only mild mods.

Thanks - i'll stick with the OEM unit.  Any idea how much they are worth?

Cheers again man!!

Tommo.

Ok!

All I know about price is that I was charged $600 for a spiggot bearing, clutch, oil,fly wheel clean etc and all labour.

It's ok, considering I got it all done by 'Spyder Porche'!!

Next thing will be synchro's on 2 and 3. (didn't have all the cash at the time!)

But if you have friends who can do it at home (or their shop), I'd expect $300 for the clutch, maybe less??

OEM clutch would definately suit your needs though, I figure.

Anyways, if anyone else can get a price for you here tonite, just to make sure??

Have a good nite Skyline buddy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1335854
Share on other sites

My 30% more clamping full face organic extreem used to do it in peak hour traffic and it was a bran spankin new clutch.

Just don't ride it, clutches are not designed to be ridden so much.

Now the 9puk ALWAYS shudders and if ridden will grab and chirp the wheels. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72506-clutch-shudder/#findComment-1339125
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...