Jump to content
SAU Community

r32 idle problem

1400r

By 1400r,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
Posted

my r32 seems to not want to idle below 2,000 rpm originally my throttle body would stick when the idle pin was screwed in( too lower the idle below 2,000 rpm) I have replaced the throttle body and it no longer sticks but still sits at 2,000 rpm. I have gone through idle adjustment procedure and the ecu section seems to do nothing on my car and the valve control only lowers it to 1,500 rpm or so. I then cleaned the valve as suggested by others this seemed to work for a little while(sat at 1,200 rpm) as the car warmed up it rose very slowly back up to 2,000 rpm. Please help ps my car was auto to start with but idled at 2,000rpm in park then too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73198-r32-idle-problem/
Share on other sites
TimmyC Collaborator

TimmyC

Posted
Posted

check this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=69151

seems like this is fairly common, mine does it aswell. im gona fix the air regulator soon

im pretty sure the air regulator is my problem cos if i take it out for a drive and it really warms up the idle eventually falls down to about 1000. I haven't fiddled with my screw yet but i will once i get to to start idleing around 1000 to get it down to 750'ish.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73198-r32-idle-problem/#findComment-1344500
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

From memory, the resistance (ohms) between pins 1 & 2 (the top 2) should be 0 when the throttle is closed.

A quick check would be to remove the plug while the engine is running, and short the 2 pins on the loom side with a paperclip. If the revs suddenly drop, then you need to adjust the TPS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73198-r32-idle-problem/#findComment-1345737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Stringycheese
      Blue slip

      By Stringycheese · Posted

      Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

      Should have asked what is the car?
    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

      I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • QB6SAGR
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...