Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll start by saying I know sfa about car audio so please excuse me if i ask stupid questions.

I have the following:

- jvc mp3 h/u

- mb quart splits

- signat 2 channel amp (2x60watt rms)

- pioneer 2 ways for rear fill (run off h/u)

- 10" mtx sub (will run 100 - 200 watts rms)

I need another amp to run my sub, my options are:

- buy another 2 channel and run two amps

- sell my current amp and buy a 4 channel

Will running two amps drain my battery of power so I won't be able to listen to my system for very long with the engine off? Will I need to upgrade the alternator or anything else?

Thanks for you help! :P

Cheers,

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7331-your-advice-wanted-please/
Share on other sites

Running another amp = more power = more current drain. So in short, yes.

Depending on how good your charging system is you shouldn't need to upgrade your alternator. You might also want to consider investing in a capacitor - not essential, but will help "smooth" the current flow to the amps.

Why not purchase a 4 channel to run the speakers & bridge the sub of the 2 channel? By running fronts off an amp and rears off the head unit you will probably find that the rears won't have enough volume.

  • 3 weeks later...

to starr with...amps are designed to run when the car is running...ie. 14.something volts, not 12! so running it when the car is turned off isnt that good. but ive found if the amps arnt staining for power (not enough power for the speakers) it doesnt do much harm (well, noticably)

if you are only going to be running a set of splits and only 1 sub, i wouldnt worry about a capacitor, just upgrade your battery perhaps.

amp wise, a 4 channel amp would do the trick...2 for the fronts and bridge the other 2 for the sub. alternativly, you could get another 2 channel amp, depending on where you are going to mount them and how much room you want left. remember, amps are generally designed to get rid of the heat when they are sitting normally...so if you mount it upsidedown and its being put to its full potential, you might have an over heating problem and then bye bye amp!

hope this helps, hope i didnt sipn too much crap!

  • 3 weeks later...

thanks all for your replies :D

i've decided i don't want to spend money on another amp just yet...so here are my options:

a) Use the amp to run my splits, and run no sub for the moment

B) Use the amp to run my sub and run splits from the head unit

I'm leaning towards (a) because my splits were pretty expensive and are quite good quality so it would be a waste not running them off an amp.

what do you think?

Yup, subbies require more power to generate a decent volume.

Hence why most subbies are around 1000w and you will not find much above 300w for other speakers. Really for a sub, an amp is essential whereas for splits its not.

I hooked up my splits to the amp but it lacked bass... so then i hooked up the sub to the amp and ran the splits from the head unit. It sounds sweet :D

I might get a cheap 2 channel amp to run my splits though because the sound is so much clearer with an amp. Anyone know of any amps for sale?

Thanks for your help all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...