Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Glad you all like it.

Special for skyliners remians at $28 expresss delivered in AUS.

Just email me at [email protected] with your oder adn address, I will then send you my details and supply a ref number.

Cheers all,

You lot make me want to trade in my cordia for a skyline...lol

so why don't you??

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi Simark,

Just a quick question...

Can you use this to replace the skylines boost control solenoid and use it as a bleed valve instead?

Have you done any testing with this setup?

It seems possible.

I have just bought one of these on ebay (didn't know about the $28 skyline special. D'oh!)

When it comes, I was going to do some experiments and use it instead of the bleed solenoid, starting with the one way valve fully closed and then losening it off to bleed air.

Any quarms?

Thanks

Chris

Hi Chris,

To be honest I have limited knowledge of skylines and how they incorporate their solenoids. I believe the knowledge you require lies right here in this forum full of clever blokes. Just today a member who purchased a controller bypassed the soleniod I believe. Perhaps you could check back a page or so and read of his setup..

Cheers,

Mark

Yeah, I've rethought my experiments -

Don't want to break anything...

When I first saw this contraption, I thought that that was how it worked...

ie, remove the solenoid and plug it into when it used to sit, and bleed air.

Now I see that you plug it in where the solenoid t piece is.

Cool, Thanks anyway...

Yeah, I've rethought my experiments -  

Don't want to break anything...

When I first saw this contraption, I thought that that was how it worked...

ie, remove the solenoid and plug it into when it used to sit, and bleed air.

Now I see that you plug it in where the solenoid t piece is.

Cool, Thanks anyway...

and its not a bleed valve.. it doesn't bleed any air...

it basically provides resistance to the air to stop it getting to the wastegate

so you start with no resistance (ie bolt fully out)then wind in as you increase boost.

starting with screw fully in will start with maximun boost and you will lose turbo very quickly..

Warren.

and its not a bleed valve.. it doesn't bleed any air...

it basically provides resistance to the air to stop it getting to the wastegate

so you start with no resistance (ie bolt fully out)then wind in as you increase boost.

starting with screw fully in will start with maximun boost and you will lose  turbo very quickly..

Warren.

Yeah, This is how I'm gunna set it up.

As for the bleed bit - I think you misunderstood me.

Maybe another way to say it is, this device was intended to be hooked up in series.

If you hooked it up in parallel, Theoretically you could use it as a bleed valve. So instead or restricting air to the actuator by tightening it, It would be bleeding air out by loosening it. Afterall, thats what the solendoid does. It's all in how and where you hook it up. (lost anyone, he he)

Anyway, It doesn't matter. I'm not going to risk blowing my engine for some experimentation. So I will be hooking it up in series - the way everyone else hooked it up. Can't wait to get it - I'm only running 6.5 pounds of boost ATM...

Yeehar!

Hooking it up in parallel like normal bleed valves would make this BC's features and design pretty useless wouldn't it?

Well like you, I'll just be hooking it up in series like everyone else and like the Jaycar EBC to get quicker boost and reduce wastegate creep (whatever that is ahhaha).

Andy

Hi guys,

Just reminding all who are receiving this controller shortly:

The controller comes pre-set at low boost, whcih which normally be slightly above whatever you are running now. I fully recommend NOT winding in the adjuster until after you have installed and tested on the road.

After this, only FINE adjustments are needed to get significant increases in boost.

Cheers

Mark

"Wastegate creep is when the wastegate is starting to open even tho your car is nowhere near full boost. As most wastegates work off springs they are set up to creep open as boost builds up. So your turbo is not spooling up as fast as it could since some of the exhust gas is being directed through the wastegate."

This is what I think is happening but would like to know more...

Excess boost is normally vented by the wastegate when boost pressure exceeds factory limts. This controller intercepts the boost and controls just how much pressure the wastegate sees (controlled by how much its screwed in or not). This used to be the solenoids job but now is the controllers???

Someone enlighten us! EDIT: Thanks Warren.

lol the question was how does this device eliminate wastegate creep. not what is wastegate creep.

well the spring is set to a tension so that the ball can only be opened by a certain amount of boost pressure. Before this pressure is reached, the ball and spring prevent ANY compressed air from getting to the wastegate thus prevent wastegate creep.

essentialy by the time the wastegate sees boost, you are already at your desired boost level ;)

Warren.

just wanting to know how this would work with a twin turbo car? would you just use a T piece to join both internal gates and then into this boost controller? and will it handle that fine do you think?

thanks

exactly. I have one of these on my GTR and it works magically. I had a avcr but was having problems tuning it so thought Id just give one of these a try seein how cheap they are anyway.

swapped the avcr solenoid for this (plumbing is all the same) and now it runs between 1.28 and 1.33bar peak on average (as the avcr is still monitering boost, just not controlling it) which is around 18.5psi-19.5psi roughly, which is close enough for me for a $30 boost controller that can get boost that accurate and hold it.

And as they say about the ball not letting any pressure through till its got the right level is true as boost hits really hard now, thank god for 4wd ;)

c what i'm having trouble understanding is:

springs F=kx pretty simple. Assumme k is constant ====> pretty good assumption.

now here's the thing:

The units of pressure (among others is) Pa, short for Pascal, 1 Pa=1N/m2. Basically Force per area. Now if an even pressure is exerted on an area u multiply the pressure by the area and u get a Force. By screwing the thing in and out u are changing x.

Now back to F=kx it is easily seen that F is directly proportional to x. hence pressure is proportional to x (since force=pressure*area, area is constant in this case). no matter if x has changed any force will force the ball bearing to move... ball bearing moves=> air gets to wastegate=>wastegate creep. Hence my confusion.

Unlike the jaycar IEBC where the wastegate only sees how much pressure u want it to c. is there some kind of seat pressure as with external gates?

Lets get rid of text book crap, and think along the lines of flow - how hydraulic diagrams are drawn.

Boost pressure ---> Screw Sol ---> Wastegate

So if screw sol wont let boost past till its 13psi, wastgate sees 0 psi.

Cheers

Matt

How effective are these in reducing wastegate creep?

I guess not as good as the Jaycar but if they are 80% as good that is pretty decent....

If I'm making full boost by say 3000rpm in 2nd gear (lightly moded R33) could this reduce it to say 2600rpm??

That would be nice

How effective are these in reducing wastegate creep?

I guess not as good as the Jaycar but if they are 80% as good that is pretty decent....

If I'm making full boost by say 3000rpm in 2nd gear (lightly moded R33) could this reduce it to say 2600rpm??

That would be nice

how efective is up to the opinions of those that have tried it

responses so far? almost as good an an EBC

so, let's say it goes something like the following:

%effectiveness at removing wastegate creep:

bleed valve - 60%

this boost controller - 90%

EBC - 100%

worth $28? i think so...

but saying that, i have not installed mine yet and hope the above is how it goes!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...