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Cheers guys, just to make sure, when these rb25's spike, is it like a mad missing sort of noise that occurs?, cause i've wounded my boost down heaps so i get no spiking, but the other day when i turned it up a bit, second gear would run till the higher revs, where a missing/popping sound will occur....is this Spiking or something elsE?

Its definitely not a good sound:)

Rich and retard!

Your just misfiring.

The ecu pumps heaps of fuel and pulls back timming to adjust for more boost. You need air/fuel meter management. - Like Apexi safc2 or jaycar dfa. Or Apexi Power FC - ECU replacement.

Maybe plug would help. Just my opinion.

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hey guys big problems with the turbotech;

i installed today in the mazda 626 turbo, did it the right way off compresser housing and wastegate etc etc.

well its working to well,

problem is it won't make under 15 pound which is a bitch for the turbo and engine,

since it should be running 14 max or the turbo will die,

so what did i do, well took out the whole assembly ball and spring, the screw isnt even in there even more and its still overboosting to hell.

its nice and quick, but i know this isnt the right way to makig safe reliable boost.

any help, i was thinking there might be a crack in the hose between the turbotech and wastegate ac but i didnt find one, i dont even think the wastegate is opening any more, so theres big problems

is there any tests i can do to get the wastegate to open without ripping the bugger off the car like moving the rod between the wastegate acc and waste, im just stuffed to know what to do i dont want to kill the turbo,

by the way its a IHI turbo resonably small, begins spooling as low as 2300, turbotech to big for it?

any help guys, would be good, cheers

nick

yeah i dont think its the turbotech, cos yeah i said theres no assembly in it, but i couldnt find a block in the hoses, so im still having problems come on guys give a dog a bone it may not be skyline but its cheap thrashbox

hey guys i've read conflicting things in this thread so i'll just ask...

can i run stock or even less than stock boost with the device by having the screw all the way out?

my rb20det is mostly standard. anyone else tune it wiht the stock boost guage?

Lets think about something here.. how do these things work..

Well - as the pressure comes from the compressor a bit is funnelled off to the wastegate spring which when the compressed air hits a certain PSI - opens to maintain a set level of boost which is determined by the wastegate spring..

but to answer it - unless it provides less restriction than the stock valve or T piece or restrictor you can't run less than you already are..

to run higher boost you are creating a restriction or in the case of these devices it takes more boost to let the air pass through to the wastegate spring..

ultimategtr06 - I don't think this is causing your issue.. I don't know what you had in place - but if it's providing no restriction than the wastegate will open at it's default pressure..

rrrage - yeah - you can run less - if the restriction is less than what was in there originally..

- I suggest you be careful, if your top comes out and no air gets to the wastegate - than from what I understand it will never open and you will very quickly build up large amounts of boost..

Hope that makes some sense.. and please - feel free to correct me if i'm wrong..

cheers

Links

Edited by Links

Hey links i've got the answer

there were 3 things wrong with the little bugger,

1. there was a restrictor in the line between compressor housing nipple and b/c that the guy b4 must of installed to get the car to run 10psi, (its the same thing those 300zx guys do with their hoses to get boost high.

this would make the turbotech useless cos theres no pressure going to the turbotech thus no spring opening.

2. Many cracks in the hose between wastegate and b/c thus keeping the wastegate from opening but no air was going to turbotech anyway because of the resister so there was nothing there

3. i have a cheap ass boost gauge i really need a better one, lol boost gauge says 16 psi, lol the factory cut off is 14.5

with all this fixed ive set it to 10~13 psi (wouldnt know but roughly), and is on full boost by 2500 all the way to redline with bout .5 - 1 psi spiking and i love it such a great little car and for only $4500g i havent run into a car that will "accelerate" faster than it, between 50km/h speed sign to 100km/h speed sign, got to love second gear,

post-6529-1132112059.jpgCould someone please tell me if i have done it all right or not????, i followed the instructions, though i cant tell until my boost gauge arrives if the tap is working or not, though if i wound the end in a bit, i get major missfiring, or spiking i think its called, so im guessing its working?

Can anyone help with this?

i think its installed wrong, ive got a red cable from my solenoid and i have no idea what its for it got put on there when i got my FMIC

its a 3pg file

you will need to rename the file to .3pg take the .doc out

any feedback would be great!

Video_030_.doc

Edited by Babylon
i think its installed wrong, ive got a red cable from my solenoid and i have no idea what its for it got put on there when i got my FMIC

I have already told you before, that red cable is where the Autobahn idiots have decided to tap into your boost lines for your boost guage you got fitted :D

Have you removed the standard solenoid out of the loop yet??? I can't watch that movie.

Here's a test, disconnect that red tube and go see if you're boost guage still works..

Edited by TommO
post-6529-1132112059.jpgCould someone please tell me if i have done it all right or not????, i followed the instructions, though i cant tell until my boost gauge arrives if the tap is working or not, though if i wound the end in a bit, i get major missfiring, or spiking i think its called, so im guessing its working?

Your install looks correct although I can't see the line going to the wastegate actuator.

Here is a pic of mine installed and working perfectly.

turbotech.jpg

Just in case that second line confuses anyone, there is only one line in and out of the turbotech.

That second hose cable tied under the controller was originally going to the factory boost solenoid. I have blocked it with a bolt and cable tied it there to keep it out of the way.

Edited by Lazy-Bastard
I have already told you before, that red cable is where the Autobahn idiots have decided to tap into your boost lines for your boost guage you got fitted :D

Have you removed the standard solenoid out of the loop yet??? I can't watch that movie.

Here's a test, disconnect that red tube and go see if you're boost guage still works..

ill try that, i really don’t think it is the boost gauge coz the autobarn guy used a black cable and that red cable was there after i got the FMIC the red cable is connect to a T piece

and do i also unplug the two cables coming from the solenoid?

  • 3 weeks later...

installed mine and it doesnt hold boost that well, but neither does the turbosmart one i tried as well...

not really good for more than 1 bar me thinks

link to dyno graph

http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3056pi.jpg

mines fine at 16psi (1.2bar).. if you nail the throttle down. Soon as you take it off even a touch, it can quickly taper off I've noticed.

Seemed to be holding boost pretty much the whole way down the 1/4 mile the other night - fairly impressive.

If its not holding boost, pull it up and shake it, then adjust a smidgen to where you had it set. May have been co-incidence, but that seemed to fix a problem it had on mine.

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